Wait I’m sorry you need to delete the part about the heat bed.
remove these,
M140 S44
M190 S44
Just finished mine. having the same issues. only I’m using cura. I hate slic3r so i never even installed it. only other difference is they didn’t have anymore extruders in stock when I bought my kit so I got the same mk8 from China. maybe I’ll try bumping up the stepper voltage to see if that helps. im also seeing quite a bit of z wobble. after this print is finished I’ll take some pics.
Update on my status
Everything checked out from our tests… I get absolutely crap prints… nothing is right.
What I did as of recent was:
I downsized the new system
I dismantled everything including the dreaded Z assembly
Cut everything to 20” (I had followed the instructions with 30")
I reassembled:
X length is now 20 ¼”
Y length is now 20 1/8”
Cross both ways = 29 1/8”
Height is 8” all the way around
Everything is level
The belts have been resized and re-applied with new fasteners tight enough to be straight but slacked.
Same print outs… almost exact actually
It now may be the steppers and RAMPS as my culprit at this point…
Here is a video of the machine printing - note how quiet and nice/smooth is moves still… no slipping etc…
20" x 20" machine printing
Here are the prints … as you can see same issues Mark, myself have been having (as well as now Walter).
Okay a little summary.
1)Print my test file/s - if they work you have software/slicer issues.
2)If those don’t work do the 100mm extrusion test multiple times. Heat up the extruder, mark 100mm on the cold/raw side of the extruder, use the software to extrude 100mm. It should be within 1mm. If it is close this probably is not the issue.
3)If it isn’t extruding 100mm. Check for pulley tension using the little screw on the extruder to give in more grip. If it is going 200mm you are missing a jumper under the driver. if the filament is feeding weakly into the extruder, you can turn up the driver to give it more power, watch the heat.
4)Check the print size to verify x,y, and z steps are correct. These should be fine.
spiral.zip (219 KB)
Walter what is the height you cut the z pipes to? 13.5 or less.
Also did you try everything mentioned above in his summary?
I’m not sure what my issue was. so I scrapped cura and did all the settings in slic3r and repetier. Slowed down my print and it got a lot better. thought about it and I figured maybe when I was fussing with things after the first duino blowout I might have swapped a driver board…well I did. got the voltages squared back up. so the next test print went really well and slow. except for some horrible z wobble on the X-axis. figured that out, I was using a piece of acrylic on top of the mdf. well it wasn’t taped down enough so that’s where that wobble came from. so I blasted out all my installs of cura and started over porting over the settings from slic3r one by one. next print was a glaring successs. Aside from all the crazy vibration of this thing eating away the zinc coating it’s printing just fine. now to dial up the speed little by little until I find a happy medium i can live with. its nice at 30mm/s but if I am actually going to be using the 440mm build platform, it’s going to have to speed up just a littles. We’re talking week long prints right now for anything substantial.
Bigger nozzle is the only way to easily decrease build time and still maintain part integrity. You can print nice things fast but they usually lose layer adhesion.
Glad you are up and running!
That texture you see on the side may or may not be the conduit surface. Mine was actually from a power hungry extruder stepper. For some reason one of my steppers runs at .9v and it is smaller than the 2 steppers that power the x and y. Crazy but once I gave it more power, smoother prints. Make sure you cool the driver with a fan at that high of voltage and feel the stepper to make sure it isn’t too hot.
My extruder is running at .72 right now. I intend to bump up the voltages once I’m done building the ramps enclosure. but right now I’m pushing the limits of the heat sinks. i need to print more so the rails wear in. its crazy how much it digs in in the middle of the rails. but I’m very impressed at how well something I built can print. I’m definitely not ever buying a printer from anyone else again. once I finish this one then its on to the router then a laser tool buildout. first thing I intend to mill is a delta style printer for tall parts
I would like to hear your ideas on a delta printer! That’s exactly what I have been researching for some good use for the cnc mill! I haven’t found any good designs yet.
The 3d printer is the hard part compared to getting a router working. Its just like 3d printing, except your tolerance for zeroing out machine on the work surface is much easier. I would recommend estlcam starting out. Easy to get some tests going. I also recommend using the “universal mount” for extra z rigidity. It helped out my prints greatly using this also! The slower I print, the better they turn out. Adding the heated bed was absolutely worth it, and improved my prints a bit more also. For less than $35, it was totally worth it. ($18 power supply amazon, $12.99 heated bed with wires and thermistor already soldered on, also amazon)
Well, a heated bed would be nice, but I’ll have to customize something, since no one makes a 440X440 bed heater. at least not for a decent price. im probably just going to build some kossel clone for the delta. basically a few acrylic parts some 3d printing an a few pieces of 2020 extrusion. for the milling side I’m shying away from Marlin and building a grbl setup so I can use easel to get started and later run it off of chillipeppr. first thing though, I gotta get this vibration nailed down.
Side note, does anyone know if there is a way to get this forum to send updates on forums I’ve replied to? i like having a community to share this project with, but it’s pointless to use a forum if it doesn’t update you on new posts.
What is your reasoning for looking to use chilipeppr vs. marlin/repetier? I’m sure there are many good reasons I’m unaware of, but I’m having a heck of a time right now with anything other than repetier. I ordered an OXCNC before Christmas and ordered a tinyG with it because it all sounded good on paper. Chilipeppr never seems to work right for me, it goes unresponsive, I need to reset the tinyG all the time, then refresh the page, then reset my 0 location, then hit play on the code and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t… and so on… I was actually thinking about going to ramps with it since its so easy to use! It actually isn’t even fun using the ox because the supporting software doesn’t seem to exist or even work half the time…
I cut mine 16" cause that’s what was on the assembly page. im about to move everything up another 3-4 inches and use a longer stainless lead screw.
I don’t see that anywhere on the forum or in the settings
Mainly because the milling I intend to do, i can get by with easel, i prefer ease of use over down and dirty for a casual use utility. if I were making this my life’s profession, the. Of course I’d muck all the extensive settings and learn to carve in code. I’ve used slicer and repetier. curs gives better results for less setup time. and as far as chilipeppr, it’s all online. nothing to setup really. and its just one option. i just enjoy the ease of use that octoprint provides and would rather setup my machine without having to use 7 different programs to kick out a one-off design-build job. i can load a file up in cura and be printing in less than 2 minutes. i would like to mill in a similar fashion. instead of design in (ur fav design tool), export. open cam software, generate code. save. open repetier, then go to machine. it may not be feature rich, but anyone can design in easel.
Check out the fusion 360 thread under the software section of the forum. It is a cad program with cam built in. Or if you use Inventor you could try to switch to inventor hsm (ads the cam to inventor) or if you use solidworks you could get HSMexpress as a plugin to add hsm (the cam part) to solidworks for free.
Even with the big cnc machines at work, we have to design in solidworks, run toolpaths in mastercam, export to a flash drive (send over the network to the machine), and then run on the machine. It isn’t really any more steps than 3d printing where you design, then generate gcode in a slicer and export to the printer or an sd card. If you use an LCD with your MPCNC you can export from your cam software to an sd card and then run that on the machine. This also eliminates possible communication issues between the computer and the machine. That is why machine shops that run a machine directly off of a PC will never have the PC connected to the internet. Automatic updates to a computer could cause communication issues and crash a machine or ruin what the machine was making.
If this discussion continues past another post or two we should move over to the software section and discuss it there to keep things more organized. I have noticed things tend to get mixed up here (or I am the one causing the mixing. If so, sorry). Maybe a general section should be created for random stuff that isn’t necessarily on topic with the MPCNC.
See, I mainly just use tinkercad right now. I don’t really all that fancy stuff
It is right next to the submit button when replying to or making a post. I checked in both of my accounts (admin and regular) and in 2 different browsers, Firefox and edge.
Maybe try a different browser?