I’m finally on the way to create my first LR3 and got some nice looking 15mm thick acrylic sheet for YZ plates but I notice my 2 large holes that are not in line with what I see in the manual or on youtube tutorials. Why not? And also, what are they for? Can’t actually see any good picture of its usage. Don’t wanna drill holes that I will regret later…
The large holes are access to put two of the bolts in that hold the beam to the XZ plates.
They are in the wrong place on your part.
This is a discrepancy that maybe @vicious1 needs to sort out?
YZ Plate.dxf from docs page YZ Plate.dxf
Sold in Shop:
YZ Plate v1.3mf from Printables
YZ Plate DXF v1.dxf from Printables
It seems the Printables version of the plate is different than what is in the shop and documentation
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All the versions work. You can raise or lower the gantry as needed to align the screw/screwhole with the access hole.
NOTE: in early versions the holes were small, only large enough to insert a tool (screw driver or allen key bit driver), and not large enough to insert a bolt head. Thus, early instructions called for the bolts to be started before installing the YZ plates. I think I was the first to drill out mine larger and suggest the plans have them larger. If yours are smaller, you can certainly drill them out like I did. It makes assembly and disassembly just a bit easier.
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When overlayed, there’s a 35mm offset between the holes in the 2 versions, as well as a slight misalignment on one of the holes to the right.
Are you saying that those offsets are fine and it will work either way? Is there a benefit to one or the other, or doesn’t matter?
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Yes, the the two sets of holes on the left will work at either height, as the gantry can be raised or lowered independently of the YZ plate. As mentioned those are for access to insert a tool (driver) and if large enough the bolt and the tool.
The hole on the right is for attaching the Z end stop switch — and the revision move to lower it simply helped to have the Z axis motion get stopped before bumping the top physical limit — without having to bend the end stop blades to accomplish the same thing.
If your YZ plate has the the Z end stop hole in the slightly higher position, and you have bumping issues, you can either bend the blades or put a little printed pad on the tip of the part of the XZ plate that strikes the end stop switch. I think I posted a listing on my printables with little “boot tips” that slip on and serve that way, but my purpose was to do without the blades as I kept knocking them off!
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Ah ok. Makes Sense.
This was the first time I noticed the difference when @moller.peter posted, so I wanted some clarification as well since I haven’t started my build yet and didn’t want to end up with an issue.
Thanks @DougJoseph for the clarification.
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Here’s the link to those little boot tips I designed and installed so I could run my end stop switches without their blades: Printables
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Circling back to this…
So it seems the larger, lower holes with the lower end stop hole is the more recent iteration, which is the one that is in the Printables set.
Should this also be updated in the documentation?
The listing in the shop is the smaller hole version. Is that an older picture, or is that what actually comes when ordered from the shop?
I guess I’m wondering if the larger holes are better, should this be consistently used everywhere, or at least have the differences noted somewhere so that someone can weigh those options between ordering/printing if they are different?
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Yes, I think this is correct. It may be possible for one of us to edit the documentation and to put in a pull request for updating it. My understanding is that is doable. I’ve never actually done it. However, I think that power would not extend to the store, as that would be in Ryan’s domain. Any delay in him updating that is certainly forgivable being how busy he is.
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Absolutely…easy to see how it could fall through the cracks…
I could submit a pull request, no problem, but I guess we first need to know what the intent is.
And as someone who will soon be ordering a kit, it would also be nice to know either way, although I see now the YZ plates have been marked “Sold Out” in the shop…
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IIRC…
The smaller, higher holes are the original design. In that position, you can gee a screwdriver.in to all 3 M5 screws at the same time with the beam near the top of travel.
When the suggestion came in to allow the larger holes innorder to fut the screw head through, Ryan moved the holes lower in order to preserve a certain wall thickness between the hole and the part edge. This does require that you move the beam for the one screw which is reachable around the YZ plate, but the same idea is present.
Anyway, it’s a lot of trouble to assemble the machine without those holes.
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I had not noticed these before - filed away just in case! 
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The link in the docs has now been updated to point to the same dxf that is in the Printables download (larger hole version)
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Thank you for your help Mike! Glad I could cause havoc with positive outcome 
No problem…but for completeness, I just happened to stumble across this today:
So just dropping it here for reference
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