For the most part I have a filament setting for pla, one for petg, another for hips, and one for abs. Generally that’s all I’ve needed, though I do have one or two copies for a different color in a couple of those plastics. It comes down to how much colorant they have to add, it will throw off the temp range of the plastic. Then I’ll make a new profile for that color. Usually I start at the high side of what it gives on the side of the spool for the starting temp. You’ll need more cooling fan, but my printer’s fan is overpowered anyway.
Thanks, my BIQU B1 has 2 cooling fans… which is pretty good right?
I will have to experiment with it.
My second 3D print!
It’s ‘Benchy,’ printed from my Pi… works great!
Layer height: 0.2
Wall thickness: 0.4
Top/bottom thickness: 0.7
Top bottom layers: 4
Infill 10%
Temp: 180 degrees
Speed: 50mm/s
I do see some small webs, but happy with it.
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small webs are probably either retraction settings or temp (your printing pretty low at 180)
but it looks pretty good, the most important thing is that your happy with it 
Thanks, I guess I’ll have to try a higher temp.
I’ll do the temp ladder to see what’s the best temp…
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I find most pla prints best at 195-210 on my ender 3… but a temp tower is the best way to find out.
Can’t wait to see what you make with it.
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I just recieved my Sunlu spindles, which I haven’t tried yet.
But they say the temperature has to be between 200 and 230…
I’m doing the Teaching Tech calibration tool now, the ladder is the last step…
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Besides some test prints I just printed my own design. Something for my wife, whipped cream spout.
The originals didn’t have a wide enough mouth…
My first print with the Sunlu PLA.
It came out pretty good, only the thread is not the best but it works.
I don’t know if the PLA is suitable for food, but this use is for some body cream.
I can’t get rid of the webbing… it’s not the biggest problem, but would be nice to print without.
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Pla is not food safe, some petg is food safe. Also the webbing is likely caused by retraction setting ot temp. I would be happy to help if you post your settings
Happy making
PLA is basicly made from corn starch. Some PLA-types have coloring in them that are not food safe. There’s also a small amount of lead coming from the brass nozzle. (on a molecular level!!)
The reason for why most filaments are not considered food safe are two sided. The first is on the chemical level, wether prints can be toxic. The other one is how the layers are not smooth enough. When used with food, they will be difficult to clean and can be prone to bacteria growth.
But if you print stuff for one time use, I’m very confident that you’ll not suffer in any way at all. But it might be wise to consider them one-time use?
Just because somthing is made from somthing that is food safe does not make the product food safe. Take vaping for example, you can put vape juice in food and eat it everyday and it would be perfectly safe(besides the possible presence of nicotine) but you put it into a vape and inhale it and it transforms into a bunch of toxic stuff such as arsenic and formaldehyde. I have seen nothing saying pla is food safe at any level and everything saying it is potentially toxic. So I would not use it for food items. (Of course mercury is toxic and it has been used in thermometers for decades). At least pet is used in all sorts of food products (literally every bottle) and petg is just pet with a modifier (glycol i think) to allow it to print better.
The website where I buy my PLA says it would be food safe but they don’t market it like that because it could get dirty in their factory etc. But without that it would be.
" Ist euer PETG / PLA lebensmittelecht?
An sich sind unsere verwendeten PLA und PETG Granulate für den Einsatz im Kontakt mit Lebensmitteln zugelassen, auch bei den verwendetem Color-Batches achten wir auch auf Lebensmittelechtheit nach BfR. Bei einigen Sonderfarben, wie z.B. Glow in the Dark" , Thermorot und einigen Neonfarben ist eine Lebensmittelzulassung nach BfR nicht direkt gegeben.
Generell gilt, dass alle unsere Kunststoffe den EU REACH Vorschriften entsprechen. Wir verwenden keine zusätzlichen Weichmacher o.Ä.
Da wir nach der Extrusion unsere Filamente nicht nochmals explizit prüfen, und zudem die Lebensmittelechtheit in der EU an dem finalen Bauteil (also dem gedruckten Objekt) geprüft werden muss, können wir keine allgemeingültige Angabe machen. Durch den Druckprozess können zudem Verunreinigungen durch Materialrückstände im Hotend oder angebranntes Material an der Düse entstehen."
PLA by itself is food safe, but what about the colorants they add? Also, how is it handled in the factory? What else has your printer printed? How clean is it?
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That’s what they say: all their colours except a few are allowed for food, but they do not test their filament after extrusion so they can’t account for contamination.
Thanks that you want to help out!
I’ve tried several settings, none worked for the webbing.
Here are my Cura settings I tried the last print:
You can easily clean that by hitting it quickly with the flame from a lighter. Those little webs disappear instantly.
I know Jeffe, I did it with a heat gun so it’s not the biggest problem 
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Try turning your retraction speed down a bit… like 45 or 50 and see if that helps. Other than that your setting look pretty spot on
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Thansk Atom, I will try that!
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Since today I have a serious problem with my printer. I was printing my first ‘long’ print of about 7h.
After like 5 hours I noticed a big problem… in the Y-axis the print suddenly offset by 2mm and after a few layers again 1mm. I stopped the print… started again and again… same problem. Sometimes it even offsets in the first layers by 8mm or so…It’s only in the Y-axis.
When I turn on the printer, connect with my Pi… I put some tension on the Y-axis by pushing, it seems like the stepper motor releases or something and I can push it like 1cm (not pushing very hard).
This is a photo from the side.
This is a test I’m printing now… even worse:
I also have problems with the first layer not sticking correctly, but that is probably easy to fix…