I think that the ender 3 max has problems with heating the bed evenly.
I see that you are using cubic infill, I read somewhere that rectilinear (zigzag infill) infill is recommended for the lowrider v3. Not sure what settings are the best.
I am also using blue pantiners tape and a bed adhesive. I also have an ender 5 plus at another location with a 0.6 nozzle.
The ender 3 max uses a 0.4 nozzle.
oh i need to check on that. Ive printed everything cubic
Is is in the docs under printed parts for the Lowrider v3.
I don´t know the difference in strength between zigzag and cubic. But maybe someone does?
I thought it was just quicker and used less filiment to be honest
I have reflected on the use of this infill pattern but I lack the 3d printing knowledge to determine what infill patters that suit what parts and why.
I would like to know what tolerances that are great, ok, acceptable and unacceptable. To know when to keep a part and when to discard it.
Perhaps there could be a v1e testprint, which tests things like sagging and tolerances.
I guess it depends. (my mounts warped alot from my motors being to hot) however the machine still runs fine. (I just havn`t replaced the parts yet)
I’m probably not helping much but will try if i can
Have you tried other filaments types? I have read that esun pla+ is able to resist higher temp. I have two filament of this brand but I haven´t printed anything with it yet.
I think that a higher ambient temp then 13 degrees C is preferred.
Have you tried heatsinks?
No i have only used pla + . I did order some petg though just incase. The problem was with current setting of the motors (Ryan put me on the right path for setting them) I did however buy heatsinks and fans but i don`t think ill need them at all.
Do you have an enclosure you could maybe put the printer in?
I don´t have an enclosure at the moment, not sure if PLA needs one?
So, I believe pics would be in order? IT all Depends on where the warpage is. There are alot of spots warpage will not hurt at all. But then if it is a critical area, any warpage can cause bearing misalignment, etc.
No. Only suggested enclosure so it doesnt cool to quick.
Yes, pics are in order. Here is one takes right now on lowrider v3 parts.
All parts shown in the picture has slight warping on them. Eventhough I used a bed adhesive and painters tape.
Those should not matter. Others will be along shortly. As long as they line up and are not significantly out of place. (Now me being me, if they were out of place, I would probably try a heat gun, but my hair brain ideas never work, so I cannot recommend it, LOL)
I tried the heat gun on one of the plates. Did not work out well lol
I just finished a piece with low bed temperature, 45 degrees C at the initial layer (to make the bed ashesive stick) and then lowering the bed temp to ambient room temp.
It has less warping and no elephants foot.
What filament are you using? If you posted prior, I apologize.
Oops you did. Pla and those conditions should not be doing that. Are there large drafts??? Or are you printing fast? I recently learned if you slowwww your print down it has more time to cool. I think it is in that post above. With speed you need adequate cooling.
I am printing in a cold room in my basement. The ambient temperature is 13-14 degress C. It
´s winter here so not that humid, about 38%.
There is however a machine that removes moisture from the air in the room where I have one printer, this might affect the prints.
I did print at 50mm/s but I am now printing av 40mm/s.
