I have an Arduino Nano inside the Position-o-Matic that handles the buttons and LEDs. When the buttons are activated, it sends GCode to the RAMBo via the serial connection. The same way the original non-Marlin Joystick was doing it. It’s programmed so that the buttons only work if you are also holding the enable button to prevent accidental activation.
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I considered it, but I’ve already printed 4 lids and two boxes, and I’m ready to be done with this project. Maybe later though. 
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Sounds like it’s time to play with milling! Get yourself some aluminum plate, mill some raised brands, and melt your labels into the case! 
I like the labels.
Brand that puppy!!
Thanks. I use only the highest class white paper labels on my projects. 
I still need to design and print out a Position-o-Matic 3000 sticker to go on the front of the box though.
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I based the Arduino switch on the one used by Arminth in his controller. Just the button handling, none of the positioning.
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Nice build! Waiting for the 10mm belts and idlers with everything else sitting ready here, I have started to tear down my burly today and remounting the first Primo parts. Everything is going extremely smooth and easy at the moment. I have one question : is it OK to keep the burly Z-axis? I tried to mount it in the new core and it fits like a glove. I couldn’t see many obvious changes to it and keeping it would have the advantage that I could keep all my tool mounts!
Any feedback appreciated!
Cheers and happy cutting (and joysticking ;))!
Armin
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Yes, that’s the only interchangeable part between the Primo and Burly/525 (OK, except maybe the feet). And it’s the whole assembly.
You can but if I have made a new tool mount for your tool the new primo one should bring the tool closer to the center=more rigid in the place it is most important.
As an alternate to using the Burly Z-axis, you can mount the Burly Mounting Plate to the Primo Z-axis. Ryan left the hole spacing in the tubing the same between the two machine. This solution gains you some cutting area and perhaps some rigidity and you can still use your old mounts. The downside (which also occurs if you use the Burly z-axis) is the one @vicious1 mentions…and you have to print the Core and a few other parts as well.
Just confirming for anyone else reading the thread. I had the exact same issue you started the thread with, loose pipes in the core clamps. The same solution worked for me as well. Loosen the bolts, snug the tension bolt up slightly, check fit, repeat. By the end I was between 1/8th and 1/4 turn past initial snug. Everything is running smoothly now.
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Came back from a 2 week vacation and fired up the Primo to cut out a part and discovered that the center core was loose again! It tried going through the process of tightening it like I did during the original assembly to no avail. I couldn’t get rid of the looseness, and it was making a mess of the parts when it was cutting.
I remembered seeing a discussion back in mid-August about loose rails on the new F builds (25mm primo core clamp issues - #25 by ben78) and went back to review what Ryan had done to address the issue. So now I have new parts printing on the 3D printer and I’m disassembling the current core. Hoping I can get everything printed by mid-day tomorrow so that I can get the machine reassembled and adjusted.
Any one need a Primo core and clamps, slightly used, and probably slightly loose?
Bummer, the new parts for the 25.4mm should not be noticeably different though, not that I know of.
I printed only the modified clamps. A makeshift repair, so that I didn’t need to print a new core. It worked great!
I happen to have spare filament and my 3D printer was feeling unloved so I’m fine with reprinting the parts.
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“Every time a core is printed,
An angels wings get newly minted.”
- Mr. Smith has a Wonderful Life on 34th St. (or something like that)
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Reprint completed without issue. Installed the new core and clamps onto the CNC and… no change. I’m still having the same looseness issue as before. But I think it might have something to do with squareness of the whole assembly. If I move the X axis gantry rail slightly on one side, the looseness on the core disappears.
I don’t relish the idea, but I may need to pull it apart and re-square the entire machine. Le sigh.
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I’m thinking this is the setup I’m going for… but whats the main power supply? the Brick in the middle? I see that it gets plugged into the outlet w the Pi power plug… but whats powering that outlet? Would love a wiring diagram but know thats a big ask. Thanks again.
The big black power brick is the 12V/5A supply that powers the Rambo. The RPi is powered by the smaller 5V supply. The outlet inside is wired up via an estop switch to an inlet in the back that takes a standard IEC power cord.
So, power comes through the power cord into the back of the controller. The hot line is routed up to the front through the estop abs back to the hit junction terminal (the one with the red tab). The neutral comes in the back and goes straight into the neutral junction block (the one with the black tabs). From there, the hot and neutral are fed into the internal outlet box to power the electronics. The hot is also run through the solid state relay on the right and then, together with neutral, to the outlet on the back where I plug in the router.
The solid state relay is then wired up to the Rambo so that marlin can turn the router on and off automatically via M3/M5 commands.
That’s the basic gist of it. I don’t have a schematic handy, or I’d certainly share it. I kinda worked all this out in my head and then methodically hooked everything up, testing as I went.
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