USB direct connect Jackpot and ESP32

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I bought a Custom V1 Engineering ESP32-DevKitC. This was with adding a pendant control in mind.This would involve updating the system. So to avoid smoking my original Esp32 w/Jackpot controller I opted for redundancy. While trying ti install the system I had trouble finding a “data” micro-USB cable and damaged the USB connector. (As an aside - I connected 3. v to a source and eliminated a brown-out issue while attempting the update.)
Thinking I could repair/replace the connector…well THAT WAS A FAIL!
In any event, I have bought another Custom ESP32
I noticed the there was a mention of a direct USB/ART in the development board connection to pin in the bottom of the board.
“… …USB UARTS have been broken out on the bottom of the boards for USB direct IO.”
Sooo… I was wondering if it is possible to wire separate USB daughter board of some kind in place of the original micro-USB (and salvage the dev board).
If that is a possibility - Are there any suggestion what pins should be used and how would it be addressed?
This all seems kind of crazy, considering the cost of the board, but i am trying to learn here.

Thinks in advance :wink:
Jeff

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The V1 ESP-32 has the GPIO pins from the CP2102 inteface chip broken out on the bottom.
That is a cool feature. It doesn’t help you in any way with your problem.

Post pictures of your damaged board.
Your first repair attempt may or may not be irrecoverable.
If you solder workmanship is so bad that it is not repairable, what makes you believe you could do a more complicated rework? Not being discouraging at all here… more than likely things aren’t as bad as you represent. So let’s see that picture.

It isn’t particularly cost effective, but that’s not the only reason to attempt repairs/modifications.
Learning and developing skills are sometimes much more valuable.

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Thank you for the quick reply!

Came very close to replacing the micro USB However, in the process of using a heat gun i managed to loose one of the tiny surface mount resistors ( i.e.: a contribution of my poor soldering skill set and miniaturization.) When I return to the house I’ll collect some pixs. for the purpose of providing addl. info for anyone else attempting something similar.
Onward to attempting to draw my 1st ‘crown’ on my MPCNC primo (sans a pendant for now.)

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Removed a new connector to replace the origional. The resistors floated and flew away …somewhere.??? I will have to retire this device :wink: Now waiting for my replacement to arrive.

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I have that same type of blue breakout/carrier board for the ESP-32.

To a determined repairer that would still be savable, but would need a new connector, and new replacement SMT parts to replace the missing ones.

Some questions and observations about your attempt.

First, what was your plan/approach for attempting repair?

What I think I see- it looks like you used a hot air reflow and tried to remove the USB connector with it.
It doesn’t look like you made a foil shield or any other attempt at air/temp management outside of the footprint of the USB connector.

The floated small SMT parts, scorching, and damaged pushbutton are all predictable with that approach.

It also looks like you planned to pull a connector from the breakout boards and try to install that onto the ESP32. That’s not a good approach.

What you might have done:
The USB connector has a large solder area on the sides which don’t just serve to ground the shell, they mechanically secure the connector to try and prevent damage from insertion/removal of USB cables.

A possibly better approach would have been to use a fine point side cutter or a cutting tool (scalpel, hobby knife) to cut the leads of the connector towards the outside of the connector. That would have left the leads still soldered to the board, but after the rest of the connector was removed those would be easy to remove.

The solder on the sides is probably better removed with a medium sized chisel flat tip, heating the solder to get it to flow and then lifting one side and/or wicking the solder out.
Repeat on the other side, and walk the connector off.
Alternately, a larger pair of solder tweezers could handle that in a very straightforward way.

At that point, you could use the chisel tip and some flux to heat up, remove, and eventually tin the flat pads on the footprint of the connector that would remain.

Next, a new (not a removed) connector could be soldered in place, and cleaned up afterwards with a find brush and some isopropol alcohol.

That ESP32 is probably still viable for repair, but as you note it’s more a curiosity or hobby thing at this point.

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Thank you for your observations -which were very much to the point! The components that floated away were SMT diodes used to protect against static and could likely be disregarded. I intend to continue the type of repair as my skills and knowledge increase. Thanks again for you suggestions.

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I’m interested in continuing to help.
Please keep the community posted with your work and results.

Good luck!

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