where is a good place to look for LOWRIDER2 CNC FLAT PARTS or is it even worth making your own out of wood ?
I’d leave the recommended minimum length alone, it’s a safe bet for most material and will give you the room that you need.
For the flat parts, many people print the drawing onto paper, and then use that as a template. It takes some care to cut out, but can be done. At least one person that I know of has 3D printed the flat parts, but that does require a larger than average 3D printer.
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And if it is a little wonky at first with manual plates, you can at least limp along enough to cut proper ones.
Lastly , what technical (The brains of the build )things must i have ? Like an emergency botton etc i see a rambov 1.4v .
Keep in mind i want the machine to move with the push of a command just like a robot please and user friendly seeing that this is my first kind of build
I assume you got one as well ? Can you let me know also what you think about the last asked question?? i just want the build to be user friendly and get the job done for cutting plastics and woods and spindle types im trying to keep away from routers as much 
I don’t really understand the question. A router is needed to cut the wood and plastics.
Take a look at the build instructions to get a feel for how to put it together and which parts you need, through the electronics. Then check the v1 shop because it can be a real pain to find everything yourself.
I was asking about the z axis when mounting a spindle What’s the max & minimum size of spindle ?
I need to know what components used that makes the brain of the mother board to have the build work .
I was saying other than the motherboard what else additional items make up the machines functionality . What else would i need ?
Most of the below is also covered in the Docs section.
There are a lot of options for controllers. Generally these are the same controllers used in a number of 3D Printers and other homebrew CNC projects. Those offered in the V1 store are best understood and supported by forum volunteers. Other options are discussed in the forums and folks help out where they can. V1 provides a pre-built Marlin-based firmware for most of the boards offered in the store and in many cases @vicious1 will ship your board with the proper firmware for the model of machine as long as you specify it as part of the order. Other boards discussed in the forums use any number of firmwares including grbl, duet, and estlcam. Note that Estlcam has both a gcode generating feature (that a lot of folks here use) and a firmware (that few do) that only works on certain very specific controller hardware. Again, search the forums if you’re interested.
At minimum for basic CNC operations you’ll need a three axis controller with 3 stepper drivers (assuming you’re using steppers - most people are but some are experimenting with servos and hybrids). Since there are 5 motors (2 X, 2 Y and 1 Z), with just 3 drivers you’ll need to run the X and Y axis using serial wiring (harness available in store, detailed how-to in the forums). For the most flexibility and “future proofing”, I suggest you choose a controller with at least 5 stepper drivers. This means that each motor will have its own driver and allows for an advanced auto-squaring feature with dual end stops. Note that end stops are not required for regular operations but they can be added if desired.
You’ve repeatedly voiced a concern that “routers are too loud” so you’re looking at a spindle instead. All the mainstream boards support at least one way to manage spindle RPM (or laser intensity). What several folks have found is that the spindle is a little quieter when not cutting but as soon as the bit hits the material the noise is indistinguishable, and a lot of the bargain spindles have lower power and/or rigidity/runout issues. One of the benefits of these forums is that we all get to learn from each others’ shared experiences. If you’re seeing lots of “you might want to rethink using a router” it’s because we’ve seen folks make similar choices in the past and many of them eventually ended up returning to the originally designed tool (or a locally available substitute).
This is very much a “build it the way you want” endeavor, and folks here have a long and successful history of helping new (and experienced) builders out, but I will say a very common suggestion that has proven it’s benefit time and again is “Build it as designed first.” The closer you stay to stock for the initial build and troubleshooting, the more folks will be able to assist. Then once you have gotten to know your machine you can make whatever modifications you like and you’ll be better prepared to work through any unique challenges that may arise.
Also, we strongly suggest the use of a temporary thread lock compound (e.g. blue Locktite) on the set/grub screws that hold the pulleys to the motor shafts.
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If I sound like I’m trying to come off as an expert, keep in mind that I have only started planning an LR2 build, and haven’t actually done it yet. I do have an MPCNC though.
If you started with the LR2 kit, you’d have everything you need to make it work, but maybe not with all of the convenience features.
You mention the RAMBo board, so you should also consider a 12864 LCD screen controller These are fairly commonly available from 3D printer supply places as well. This is the “push the button and go” thing, it also needs an SD card to do that.
You can probably make do with just having a power switch close at hand, but the stop button is a good reminder as to how important the ability to shut things off in a hurry is.
You will need something to turn drawings into code that the machine can run. This is CAM software. I use EstlCAM, which can be used for free, if you’re willing to put up with the nag messages. I think EstlCAM also has a code sender, so that you can connect it straight to the CNC, but I don’t use it, so I can’t vouch for that functionality.
The emergency stop button is a good idea, but it’s basically a power switch. Just make sure that you have a master power switch that you can get to quickly if your machine does something dangerous.
It’s sort of obvious, but bears repeating anywhere that people will listen. Safety First. This is a power tool, and if it will cut wood and metal, it will go through your flesh and bone in a heartbeat. Do not operate the machine with sleeves that can possibly get caught in the power tool. Rings, watches, or other accessories that can get snagged should be avoided. While the power tool is in operation, eye and hearing protective gear should be in use, and you should not attempt to grab or otherwise manipulate the workpiece while the machine is in operation. All work material should be securely clamped down before the machine is started. This is by no means a comprehensive safety list. Use your brains.
As for user friendly… Because of the wide variety of things that a CNC machine can do, there’s generally not a “push a button and go” about it. There are no “consumer grade” CNC machines out there, no matter how much money you do or do not pay for one.
SKR PRO1.2, 5X 2209 DRIVERS, TFT35 E3 V3 & NEMA 17 76OZ/IN STEPPERS are all sold out is there a alternative place to get them at the moment ? Please let me know
i did reading it to me it seems a lot more straight forward than what i was reading before
Nema steppers are back in stock.
Go to Shop and open Categories chose what you want, if it is out of stock you have a option to get notified when the item is back in stock.
Howmany of TFT35 E3 V3 doi need ?
i got 5X for this item trinamic tmc2209 drivers, on the motherboard it shows about 6 ports and all of them look identical to me
You need 3. If you want the dual endstop firmware for things like auto-squaring, then you need 5.
Each of those ports will have a label. X, Y, Z, E0, E1, E2. This refers to the default axis that it controls. X axis, Y axis, Z axis, and extruders 0, 1 and 2. Each will be connected to a plug for that axis. (The Z axis by default has 2 motor plugs, IIRC.) The ports themselves don’t just look identical, they ARE identical, since each replicates the task of driving a stepper motor, using the same style driver module.
For series wiring, you need only use X, Y and Z. The drivers come in sets of 5. You can plug in the extra drivers (E0, and E1 would be my suggestion) in case you want to add functionality later, but they can be left out too. Series wiring is probably the simpler way to go, there are fewer things to connect, and it’s easier to do. With the series wiring kit, the instructions should be straight forward enough.
Hey guys Ive ordered for 5 motors but in this case its saying the stock is low ; will i get it shipped to me after the fact that i already paid for the 5 total in checkout what’s the protocol @vicious1 @ttraband ?
Please let me know when you received my message thanks guys
Just to be clear, I’m just a happy customer and volunteer supporter of the forums, not an authorized spokesperson for @vicious1’s business in any way.
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You just paid for 5 steppers, from me?
If you paid I have it and it will ship ASAP, I don’t typically do any sort of preorder. I don’t have any steppers right now though. I have a pallet coming but it is taking longer than expected.
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