Repeat V2?

10 degrees, it could be pretty easily set for more. When the software becomes more readily available, it will be fun to use!

I do not believe so. I use insulation and there is the plate to block it. The mounts would get in trouble far before the stepper would. No benefit other than size, I take that back, half the belt means half the stretch. But no no real other benefit.

Not understanding this one.


Sounds great. I like the LR3’s adjustable belt tensioners.

Was curious what a stock Repeat v2 build is expected to be comparable to, performance wise. Guessing it’s somewhere between Ender 5 and Voron, but a lot closer to Voron?

Oh, I have no idea. I have not used anything other than my own machines in 6+ years. On top of that I am not known for testing speed limits of my machines. I look for the fastest I can print and get minimal to know ghosting and as much accuracy as possible.

With that said…most any corexy will have very similar numbers I would assume, with a comparable firmware.


Turns out my old toothed idlers are 14mm tall and the new ones are 13.2mm. I am going to leave the slots alone so it fits both, slight shaving is needed for 14mm. This will keep the belts centered better.

Editing the center piece now.


So far so good, fully assembled and belted. Been working on the little extra parts and mounts today.

I think I am going to make some sort of basic cover for the SKR, maybe clip on to my basic mount thing. Might make it look a little less busy in there.


Like v2 and plan to build one, thank you for the time and effort you put into creating, sharing and supporting these builds.

Recent posts about the origin/history of the V1E logo got me wondering…

Given linear rail prices. To reduce cost, and make build more affordable for folks, especially if they want custom/large dimensions. Was EMT considered instead of linear rails for z axis, maybe other axis too? With printed parts mounting EMT rails to frame/box.

Or go further even to optimize for cost, without compromising quality, and use EMT instead of 2020 for portions of the box frame even? Personally, I liked that v1 plybox helps provide structure at reduced cost, but also helps improve prints by reducing unwanted air flow.

2020 alu frames look cool. But looking at my LR3, I really love how it sticks it’s finger up at other comparably sized $$$ CNCs. The finger is pointing to a better way of course, not sure what you assumed :wink:

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Not sure if this is what you were thinking but it made me wonder, can you use only two Z rails and still have three Z motors?

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So I do not know if it is possible on the lr3 , but there have been plenty who used the mpcnc for a 3d printer.


Yes, this, mostly printed and mostly EMT (and/or other affordable accessible material) based 3D printer has been done by the community already. That is cool!

So “large” is kind of subjective, or debatable here. Core XY is not good for Giant builds, and for giant build giant extruders should be used. So in a giant build an MPCNC is probably easily the better choice. Large to me would be 300-400mm range and the linear guides / corexy are great for this. Giant is anything over that.

To me, personal choice here, was to make a good production printer. 8 printers is a lot to manage, I do not want to add more, I would rather print faster and maintain less. The V3 (repeat) is faster than the V1&2 but the CF tube did not handle 24/7 use. I blasted all the CF rails now, in a few months. My hope is the linear guides are less maintenance required. Using emt increases maintenance (occasional adjustments and tube turning) and the hardware increases size/footprint.

That is kinda why I don’t really ever support the printers like the CNC’s. The printers are 100% built to what I need and want, where the CNC’s are trying to do it all.

I do not like the Extrusions much either, but for the dimensions I prefer to hold for my printed parts that I sell the extrusions allow for me to very easily fine tune all aspects very quickly. If you look around at any 3D printer company, I do not think once I have ever seen accuracy listed, at best you will get an accuracy possible number. micro-step calculations. I try to adjust the V3 and V4 to under ±0.2mm off 150mm compared diagonals in any axis. If you even look at tuning guides I don’t think I have ever even seen a Zx Zy calibration procedure as most printers have no way to adjust them. Early printers had adjustable diagonal stabilizers, those seen to have disappeared. BUT…I have actually still made V4 to fit in a wood box, with the exception of the right XY stepper, that would need a vertical mount instead for the 90 I just added. Pretty easy fix, if you are not needing such exact dims.


Check these out. Really neat concept, but lots of plastic and lots of parts.

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Did you try replacing it with a bit of steel? Is that just too heavy?

I don’t want to stop your progress on V2. But you probably have a couple of V1s that you would like to keep running.

I have replacement CF and Aluminum tubing as well, but it is just too difficult to replace quickly, and then retest accuracy. I spent too much time trying to make it with few parts instead. I got stuck in the engineering challenge instead of the project itself. The other thing is I am now realizing I was so unsure of the belted Z I was trying to just get it done ASAP to try and run it.


I replaced the CF with aluminum tube. A few grams heavier, but smoother and more accurate, I think. I used to be able to see some wobble on X travel righr close to the bed, seems to be gone now.

I think Im going to build a 200mmx200mm repeat pretty much as designed. Ill grit my teeth and cut the rails, too. (I.always hate cutting stuff, in case I need the length later.)

Still kimd of.batting around the idea of hybridizing the Z axis though, using the new Z parts.

Also, I have a couple of Duet 2 boards, and it would be nice if I could manage to hack it for 5 drivers… but that’s kinda tricky. Maybe with hard stops to level the front 2 motors…

That would surely help.

The expansion board looks straight forward, a little bit of work but it would be interesting. Their new docs look good, wiki.js Dozuki must have started to get a bit too expensive.

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Problems with the expansion boards i that they’re difficult to get ahold of, and where you can find them, it’s almost easier to get one of the new Duet 3 boards that have 6 drivers, which leaves me with (still) a few spare Duet 2 boards.

My sole complaint with the Duet 2 for CNC work is that there’s no good option for a laser pin (though I have now got a dozen or so little boards that let me use a heater pin for PWM laser output.) Not relevant for printers though.

I have RRF for the SKR Pro compiled, and have been playing with that. Some of the pin names are a little funny for the configuration though, so I’m still working stuff out, like finding the right configuration for the BLTouch.

Anyway, the aluminum tube is probably more durable. It’s certainly more dimensionally accurate and smooth, which seems to have a good effect on my prints.

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Man those are clean


Interesting to see the variation of the frame assembly- some with internal 90 degree frame connectors, some with braces on the outside.

Are you experimenting to see what gives better rigidity?
Or, are you like me and sometimes build things up with whatever you happen to have on hand?

What kind of clearance volume is there in the front below and behind the horizontal extrusion?

Those flying Z motors are pretty clever. Do the steppers get warm sitting there with just hold current?

What kind of tolerances are needed when making the frame cuts?
Tired of me asking questions yet?

Whatever I have on hand. I hate the inside ones since the screws can move but they are a lot cheaper and I have a ton of them laying around.

90mm or so space under the rail and all teh way under the bed, 40 to get your fingers caught betwean them.

They don;t need to, but I have not dialed anything down yet so they are still running a bit above room temp.

Everything can be adjusted so it doesn’t really matter. The better your cuts the faster you get a square frame though.