I’ll double check, I swear I added a couple extra mm to the thickness. I will have to double check all the steppers I have on hand and see if there are depth differences.
Shoot, tight for me, but a drop of your favorite glue (or even loctite) will help here. This must be a slicer or Printer things, some are tight and some are not. What slicer do you use, Cura was brought up before with the same issue, prusaslicer did not have it. (preliminary results)
But the trucks are so easy to slide the gantry rail out of and just rotate I figured it was okay. Nothing like the Burly.
Thanks for all the feedback, coming from experienced builders I take it very seriously.
I use Prusa Slicer with a MK3s. I will use loctite, its not a problem, but something I thought I should note.
True, but they don’t really rotate well when the belts are installed. Not that I think people would normally have need to remove the motors, just something I had to do because I put all of the screws in (and seated them) without realizing that the motors were loose because the screws had bottomed out.
All in all, it went together much easier than the Burly did, and I am more confident that its square with the new techniques than I was with the Burly.
I was curious and I looked, but I couldn’t find a spec for the depth of the threaded holes on a Nema 17 motor. So I think it’s unspecified. The safest approach might be to make the thickness the same as the Burly motor mount since that was apparently a good amount for M3x10.
I’ve always had trouble with depth of screws on nema17s. There’s always one corner that is shallower for some reason. I can usually fix it with a washer.
