Next Zenxy build ideas

Sorry, M3x10 I will fix that now.

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What print size did you use for the 3/4" EMT? Thingiverse only posts a 25mm and a 25.4mm where the 3/4" EMT (US) would be 23.5mm OD.

Currently, the ZenXY v2 is only released as a beta on PrusaPrinters.org. It only fits 3/4&1/2" emt.

Are there plans to offer a 2 channel board in the V1 shop? I saw the links to the Tindie boards above, but I am not ready for electronics yet (14 more hours of printing, then conduit and assembly) so I could wait for something “official”…thanks!

I do not have anything on the way yet, but I am trying. I would say if you are in the US just grab one from Mr. Dring. I am not sure if or when I will have something 2 channel.

Promise I have not been slacking off. I am trying to learn fusion, or Onshape to share some models. I plan on sharing a basic Zenxy model (sorry I modeled this in Solidworks so the parametric part will be lost, just step files) and some sort of basic parametric table.

I have a lot to learn though, Looking for some fusion design help.

If am using 6mm belt and idlers, do I need to buy/print spacers so that the idlers sit centered in the truck cavities? I assume that I would not want the idlers sliding back and forth on the M5 screws?

You can use 6mm belts and pulleys, but you need 10mm idlers.

So lets say, hypothetically, one already bought 6mm idlers…and that by hypothetically he meant absolutely literally? haha

6mm belt idlers have 3mm bores. bummer

not mine…5mm bores. Fit the screws perfectly, but slides to and fro.

The 10mm idlers measure 14.2mm across, mine are 8.5. Half the difference is 2.85mm or .112". That gives 14 layers on a print. Gonna try and whip up some spacers.

No problem then, spacer will be awesome.

This is the way that I built the beta at first, with 6mm belt and idlers.

Some of those are troublesome to get the spacers in. I printed a bunch of 2mm spacers, then completely forgot to put them in. :man_facepalming: (I’d loosely assembled stuff waiting for the print, then finished everything with the spacers still on the print bed.)

Actually, it was okay, but if your tolerances are close, then at the extreme Y end, you sometimes get interesting noises if the pulleys get much out of alignment. I think it speaks to the quality of the design that it handles it so well.

However, I do not recommend this.

Witht he spacers installed, it is excellent, and presents no problems at all. I would have had no reason at all to upgrade to the 10mm belt if I weren’t evaluating the design as it should be made. I don’t think that 6mm belt with spacers will cause you any inconvenience at all.

I will add that you do have to be careful with the belt at the center piece. With the narrow belt, there’s nothing to keep it centered in the tension block, or the loop termination, and you want to keep it centered in the clamp piece too. Probably not critical, since this isn’t actually a precision machine, so a little drift from improper parallax isn’t going to completely ruin it, but inconsistent tension isn’t good for CoreXY kinematics.

Thanks!

Seems to work just fine. Pain in the butt to assemble. Thats my penance for being too impatient to wait and order the right parts, and use whats in the leftover bins!

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The 16T size ones do. The 20T size ones are usually 5mm bore. but I think that’s also true of the 10mm belt pulleys. At least is is for the ones that I have, but my 16T ones were specifically bought for 3mm bore.

I just ordered one of the black boards from Tindie. I wanted this to be a parts bin build for me, but my old printer board was bigger than need be, NOT quiet, and the WIFI capability was too good to pass up considering my table is going in the main living area and needs to meet all the bosses criteria (quiet, attractive, non-obstrusive, easy to operate, etc).

I saw that the board has some 5V outputs…can we use these with a relay to run LED strips?

The 5V is pretty low current. You can light up some current, but not much. I would figure each LED and Color uses about 20mA max. So if you wanted 150 LEDs and they were RGB, it could be up to 9A. Which is too much for that board.

If you want to tuck a few more bits of gear inside, you should get 12V addressable LEDs and just get the power from the main power brick. I use WLED, which runs on another esp32 and gives you another wifi web page to control the lights. I know there are WLED boards that use only 12V and can power the esp32. There are also addressable led controllers that have a simple remote.

I believe he was asking about powering a 5V relay from the board, which should be fine, most relays only need a few mA of current.

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Cool, thanks for the answers! Sounds like I have options. Need to decide what I want out of the light.

Well I could use some ideas.

I am trying to make the opaque border on the top glass. Wet applied vinyl is 95% perfect, small bubbles would have surely went away, but I scratched it and there is no easy repair process. On top of that I can see people having a real hard time with it.

So I took it all off and tried paint. Did every thing in my power to get a crisp line…nope. On top of that even with two thick coats it is hardly opaque.

Not really sure what to try next. I could use some roof flashing, painted, but that is pretty bendy. Last resort is a thin wood frame or Heffe’s printed part. I am just really trying to keep the overall thickness to an absolute minimum.