New Build in Speyer Germany

Hi everybody, the build starts here (dramatic sounds please :smile: ).
I want to use my Proxxon FBS 240/E “Feinbohrschleifer” rotary tool with it and a drag knive for PVC foil cutting. Arduino UNO with shield for the electronics and 25mm stainless steel tubes from EBay.
After some days of information gattering about the project, my second batch of parts is in the printer, now. I have a Monoprice Voxel 3D-Printer with a build volume of 150x150x150mm. So not the biggest machine for this project, but it´s possible.
I print my parts in rPETG with Flash-Print settings: nozzle temperature: 225°C, print bed: 70°C, fan: ON
Yesterday I tried the first XYZ_F_Burly with 65% Infill. The print was a little bit “stringy” (new material),

so I changed the nozzle temperature today to 230°C. And yes I put it on a raft to be shure. Maybe next week I will have all the parts ready. No need to rush, I take my time. I don´t know the size of my machine and haven´t ordered any tubes yet. Any recommendations? I think I will use 600x800x100 tubes.


I weighted the part and it’s a little heavier than in the parts list, but not much.

I think I have enough material for the build.
By the way is a kitchen scale good enough for this? Yes.

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Welcome to the crew!

Do not worry about the weights at all. They were put there as a ball park for how much filament you will need. Same with the times. Some print a set in half the time, some take twice the time. It is just a reference. Any tiny slicer change you make will alter both numbers.

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Wow, found some time after very crazy, crazy months to put the mpcnc together and what´s that? A new version? I like the new endstopp design on the tubes.
Bigger parts, less build together - means the tolerance count goes down, always good!
Now I have all the parts for version one printed and all the electronicts…
What to do? Yes, of course I could print all the new stuff…
No, let´s build the first and getting some experience with it … first :wink:
I print the belt tensioner and use the old endstopp design.
After that I would like to build a version of the 3D printer, but with a longer bed.
But first things, first.


Hi Timo, cheers from Schleswig-Holstein. Now that you have the burly parts already, it makes sense to proceed as you outlined. Hope you put enough internal filling material in, my mix there was a bit meager… Whereas the primo core I printed with 75% filling is really a rock solid monolith, compared to the/my burly. But you can do wonderful things with that too - let us know about your progress!

Where are you located?



Hello Ulli, thanks from Speyer! I’m looking forward to build stuff with it already. What material did you use for your build? PLA? I printed my parts with PETG. What kind of printer do you use?

Best Regards

I know I am not Ulli, but cheers from another German. I printed with PLA and a Prusa Mini.

Danke Philip, good to know. What kind of board did you use? Is the UNO ok? what are the limits?

By the way, because I had 4 short stainless steel table feed, I decided to use them for the build. Because the tubes are 30mm in diameter I designed 4 new parts for them:

30 was not wide enought. 30.3mm would be better.

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Almost done… played yesterday way to long with it. Great fun!


I am using the board from, it runs on a Mega.

Your legs look waaaaay too long to be feasible, would at least cut them in half if you want it to be more rigid. Ryan always says that Z is the most important axis for it.

A Mega, I see… I thought about that. Thank you for the URL! I didn´t know that side before, nice stuff.
It´s very rigid already with the 30mm legs. Because I want to cut model foam and vacuum molded plastics with it, it needs the long legs. I don´t think that the leg´s will be a problem in soft materials. I don´t wanna cut metals with it.
If there are any problems with the length of the legs, I can always shorten them later.

For those materials you could have 1m legs I guess. :stuck_out_tongue: The Arduinoclub board does not use the small drivers though, you need bigger ones like the TB6600 (which are absolutely brilliant).

Someone in another thread gave me this link:
He developed another great board it seems.

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Oh thanks, very nice side. I like the “Comparison of known control boards”.
My sources are this side here of course, and the “Uncel Phil” stuff: mainly.

Yeah, I started with Phil but had my own ideas pretty quickly. :slight_smile: I do watch his videos for milling the touchplate though. :smiley:

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PETG from 3DPSP. Happy with the constant professional quality and service.
Still printing on a plain vanilla alfawise U30 (not the pro version!), on which I just replaced the wheels and will now upgrade to linear rails (got the set from aliexpress and will have to test proper greasing materials and procedures first. As delivered, they resemble the smoothness of the Matterhorn. Well, my nickname here means Rattermarke in german… :slight_smile:

I think, more important nowadays is what slicer you use. I got simplify3d, version 4.last… They announced version 5 long ago but did not show up since then with any news. Hope their company survived/s the pandemia.

Linux-CNC fan here.

I like the welded base plates.
Hint: I added 4 tubes to just stabilize the frame and have support for accessories.

The connector blocks can be found among the things people developed for the first generation of the MPCNC on thongaverse.Yes, I know, more than one of them is broken, too little infill, too much torque… On my list of to be reprinted parts. With 10 perimeter tracks! :wink:

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I dig the IKEA lamp. I have one of those lying around as well, will do something like this as well. Great idea!

I buy them in half or full dozens. Their USB version is also very useful on my boat (which is a floating USB carrier…)

Of course, I milled the panels from Dibond boards on my MPCNC.