Good advice thanks, mainly my logo engraving, custom lettering and template cutting.
I would like to do larger projects but like you said probably a lot easier to start small.
I have revised my size to 530 x 700, what z axis is recommended? I would like 45mm of travel.
Thatâs great thanks!
Am I right in saying you made your went for ramps, drivers, and an arduino mega instead of a mini rambo? Any particular reason? Or just price?
Price and also the fact that if one part breaks itâs easily replaceable and cheaper to fix
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Itâs not junk, and it is big enough to print all the parts, but it will take some trouble-shooting and modification. The only part I had to replace was the bed, so itâs a cheap way to print the parts.
Personally I like spreading the cost over a few months, and found the work an interesting introduction to CNC machines, but Iâm sure a lot of people wouldnât see it that way and would rather pay a little more something that works out of the box.
Itâs definitely worth having a printer though. A quick browse around Thingiverse is bound to find some little gadget you didnât know you needed.
800mm X 1200
Mine is that size, but Iâm aiming to cut foam sheets with a light-weight cutter. When the gantry is in the middle I can press it down about 5mm. I think youâd struggle to do something like carving signs with a V-bit (where Z-depth is important) at that size.
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This seems like a common worry, but it is not really true. Ultimachine designed the ramps boards a long time ago, the new boards they designed are vastly superior in terms of âoopsâ proof, and are extremely protected. So anything that can go wrong on a ramps (drivers are the only thing that can be replaced), canât really go wrong on a rambo or archim. Most every pin is protected in multiple ways. Back current, endstops on the wrong pin or reversed power will destroy a ramps 100%, worst case on a rambo is a$1 fuse.
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Good point. Guess it just comes to cost then. Would rather be spending $5 for a Ramps board, $10 for a Mega, and $6 AUD for drivers than $80 AUD for the clone version of the Rambo that would surely be making some compromises on components? Real Rambo board costs about $200 AUD if I remember correctly. I guess youâve just gotta triple check all connections as well as to not short anything.
Thinking of this to print the parts, what do you think?
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Does the same go for the mini rambo?
Yup.
If you get one, get a real one, the clones have issues with the Y or Z driver.
I see what you are saying, I am just letting others know the replace argument is invalid, you only have to replace it on a ramps because it is not protected. The newer boards are all properly protected and fused. So no matter what you go forâŚanything newer that a ramps is a better option by far.
By the way I,m planning on using a small 1/4" Katsu router with this (Makita clone)
Are 52 nCM steppers enough?
Iâm currently trying to work out which board to use. At first I decided to use the Ramps setup, then I figured a mini rambo clone would save a lot of messing. Iâve just been reading this.
If I go for endstops am I right in saying I need Ramps or Rambo, mini rambo wont do it?
Thanks
You are correct. The general consensus is to go with a genuine Rambo, as the Ramps you get these days are pretty much all chinesium knock-offs, and the quality control is⌠lacking. Thatâs why Ryan no longer carries them. Too many returns to his vendor.
Thanks, thats set to put my build up by quite a lot, any experience with the aliexpress or amazon rambo boards?
Not genuine, there are issues with the stepper port wiring.
Genuine, but $70+ more than genuine from me.
Thanks Ryan, I would definitely prefer to buy from you, the advice, support and work you have done is amazing!
Unfortunately by the time shipping, eu customs duty and vat is added the board is a little over âŹ200 depending on exchange rate.
I think I will make this my last purchase. It will give me more time to save/change my mind multiple times/find a secondhand oneâŚ
Ok, Iâve just found a genuine open box but unused Ultimachine Rambo 1.3L for about âŹ20.
Is this the board for me? Or do I need the 1.4?
If you are going to use an lcd you also would need to buy the lcd adapter board for it. The only difference with a 1.4 is the lcd pins are moved to work without an adapter.
Gradually getting there, board ordered, 3d printer ordered!
About to order the nema 17 motors.
Such a massive choice.
Iâve seen some 72 oz/in ones with a meter long cable, is this long enough or do I need to order more cable too?
Also what plug should I get on the end? Du-Pon?
Thanks all
The cables have to go the length of your X + Y dimensions (in the moving tube, then enough to reach from the far end of a fixed tube), plus a bit to wrap around the roller mounts, plus however much you need to reach into your controller box. 2 meters should be about right for your build.
Some people buy the crimp tool and make their own cables, but (IMHO) itâs not worth it if youâre only building one machine. Getting the crimps right is tricky, and you can buy cables with the right ends ready made, pretty cheaply, on ebay.
If youâre not building the dual end stops, youâll need to cut the cables and solder on an extra motor plug, using the wiring diagram in the instructions (because there are two motors on each gantry, controlled from one socket on the board). Youâll need a 2m cable for Z, but you might just manage with 1m cables the four X and Y motors, as youâre cutting and joining wires.
Does that make any sense, or have I over complicated things?
Oh, and I found 10m of nylon braid about right, allowing for an extra layer so I didnât have wires rubbing on the metal tape-measure. Also 2mm heatshrink tube for the solder joints, and 12mm for the ends of the braid.