Neat!

Random or Off Topic
986

Sandify is my next project, very nice job.

I already have a table with a glass top available :wink:

987

That looks horribly complicated… -_-

988

I meant that if you make the pattern in sandify and ecport the gcode, you could add a little starting and ending code to cut that pattern right now on your LR.

989

I am not so sure. If you had something you were doing over and over, and over.

So, My daughter is doing bazaar’s right now. And I am seeing that as a simple way to set up custom projects very easily!

I am more than curious on this one!

Well, hmm, not so sure how I feel about a monthly charge, but it is minimal. The kit is not badly priced either.

image
image939×829 65.9 KB

990

That kit is mostly this webcam.

The workflow doesn’t make sense for me. I’d rather just make gcode.

I would be curious about using it for alignment though. I haven’t researched this yet but if I could find a webcam that I can get the current image or stream from a URL, I would think I could create a WebUI v3 extension for FluidNC. I’m not sure any of that is necessary since you can using probing or tiling for the use cases I can think of.

1 Like
991

That would be similar to how Lightburn can use a camera for alignment on a laser right? I know I have tried that in the past and while it works great, the image you get is always extremely grainy even from a high resolution camera. I believe it has something to do with how they make the image “flat” so it matches the layout exactly but that’s all way above my paygrade.

1 Like
992

I haven’t used Lightburn but something like that. I’m sure there are some technical challenges.

1 Like
993

I was considering writing an onshape feature script for some cnc joints but then I looked and someone beat me to it and did a much better job than I would have. You can find it here:
custom feature

Here are a few joints it does:

image
image920×549 99.3 KB

9 Likes
994

image
image666×500 89.8 KB

I think you need a maker world account, but I asked it for a Seaturtle and it came up with this in about 2min
image
image867×772 47.9 KB

3 Likes
995

They probably set it to the lowest latency, which is low dynamic range and low resolution. Just a guess as someone who has done computer vision algorithms in the past.

2 Likes
996

Ok, so who’s going to do a LR4 mod to rapidly 3D print silicone parts in a fish tank filled with lube?

3 Likes
997

An expensive kit but cool. A USB PD controller that also powers the NEMA 17 that mounts directly to the stepper. Has an ESP32-S3 and includes an encoder for closed loop.

2 Likes
998

Wow. That is interesting. AliExpress is going to be way cheaper when it reaches them. Hand picked and placed by Josh is not the least expensive way to make anything.

The applications were neat too. The trouble is that most machines I have need more than one motor. If you get into needing 3+, then the usb pd isn’t the best solution for power

Honestly, USB PD is excellent. I just need to see a better implementation of the USB PD power supply. The little (actually pretty big) wall warts are not scalable.

999

Yea, this mostly makes sense for single stepper applications.

USB PD 3.1 adds up to 48v and 240 watts. I think there are a lot of applications with that. Agreed on the power supplies.

https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd

1000

DOH!

1001

I’m starting to warm up to this guy. Something still feels a bit off for me to enjoy the videos, but they are fine.

I think we need more CNC YouTubers

2 Likes
1002

There’s a lot of promotion in his videos, but that’s to be expected these days. His videos are always well produced and include a lot of useful information too. I hope he continues making them.

2 Likes
1003

He is taaaaalking and taaaalking and doesn’t get to the point. Uff.

2 Likes
1004

What would you prefer? A single paragraph summary or “Short” that covers major points, and/or, ability to zoom into more details (if interested)?

(AI) One paragraph summary

Plastic tends to melt and re‑adhere when machined, so instead of down‑cut or standard two‑flute up‑cut bits—which trap and recut chips—use a single‑flute “O‑flute” solid‑carbide up‑cut bit (available in ¼ in and 8 mm diameters) with mirror‑finish flutes to eject chips cleanly and prevent welding. For hard plastics like acrylic, run the ¼ in O‑flute at conservative RPM and chip‑load settings (as shown on‑screen) with multiple hold‑downs to counter the strong upward pull; for soft plastics such as HDPE (knife‑testable), the 8 mm O‑flute can be fed significantly faster. Always use tabs to secure profiles, and clear stray shreds with a nylon brush or fingertip for a crisp, post‑processing‑free edge.

(AI) Several paragraph summary

Plastic behaves very differently from wood on the CNC: its chips can remelt and weld back onto the cutter or part, leading to stringy, burned edges. Standard down‑cut bits exacerbate this by trapping chips and re‑cutting them, while even two‑flute up‑cut bits—with less aggressive geometry and rougher surfaces—still allow melted plastic to adhere. The solution is a single‑flute “O‑flute” bit: its sharp shear angle and mirror‑finish flutes eject chips cleanly, prevent adhesion, and produce crisp edges on both hard plastics (like acrylic) and softer materials (like HDPE).

When using O‑flute bits you’ll notice increased upward pull, so more hold‑downs are necessary to keep the workpiece stable. Feeding and RPM should follow manufacturer guidelines—hard plastics require more conservative settings, soft plastics can be machined faster. Tabs, nylon brushing, or even fingertip clearing handle the few stray shreds left behind. Overall, swapping to an O‑flute cutter transforms plastic machining from a messy, post‑processing burden into a clean, efficient process.

(AI) Time indexed overview

Here’s a concise, time‑indexed breakdown of the video, followed by the core takeaways:

0:00 – 0:08

  • Intro: Highlights the fundamental difference between machining plastic (which melts) and wood (which doesn’t). Sets up the promise of “perfect plastic cuts—no melting, no burning.”

0:08 – 0:43

  • Common Mistakes: Shows typical bad plastic cuts: chip‑out, melted/stringy edges. Explains that plastic chips get re‑cut and “weld” back, causing friction and poor finishes.

0:43 – 1:47

  • Why Wood vs Plastic Behave Differently:
    • Wood chips break cleanly; re‑cutting wood chips rarely causes issues.
    • Plastics (e.g., acrylic, HDPE) have lower melting points than burning points, so reheated chips smear and stick.

1:47 – 2:20

  • Why Down‑Cut Bits Fail on Plastic:
    • Down‑cut bits force chips into the cutter’s flutes, recutting them on each pass and causing heat buildup and poor edges.

2:20 – 3:02

  • Standard Up‑Cut vs. Plastic‑Specific Bits:
    • Standard two‑flute up‑cut bits eject chips but still have angles and finishes that let plastic adhere.
    • Plastic‑specific “O‑flute” bits have a single up‑cut flute with a very sharp shear angle and mirror‑finish walls to minimize adhesion.

3:02 – 4:30

  • Introducing the O‑Flute Bit:
    • Solid‑carbide, single‑flute up‑cut design (“O‑flute”).
    • Mirror‑smooth surface repels melted plastic, ejects chips cleanly.

4:30 – 5:14

  • Demo #1—Acrylic (Hard Plastic):
    • Used Âź in O‑flute to pocket and then profile.
    • Requires extra hold‑downs due to upward pull.
    • Chips fly out cleanly; smell like acrylic nails.

5:14 – 6:02

  • Results & Settings for Acrylic:
    • No welding or burning; razor‑sharp edges.
    • On‑screen speeds/feeds (for both Âź in and ⅛ in O‑flute bits) are shown.

6:02 – 7:16

  • Demo #2—HDPE (Soft Plastic):
    • Knife‑test to distinguish soft vs hard plastic.
    • Cutting “color‑core” tri‑layer HDPE with 8 mm and Âź in O‑flute bits.
    • Screen flash of optimized feeds/speeds.

7:16 – 8:27

  • Observations on Soft Plastic:
    • Chips can wrap around the bit, fling off—messy but harmless.
    • Drill holes effortlessly thanks to the flute geometry.

8:27 – 9:13

  • Cleanup & Tab Removal:
    • Nylon brush or even a finger removes stray bits; tabs cut off for final part.

9:13 – 10:05

  • Speed Comparison:
    • Soft plastics machine faster than hard plastics.
    • Screen‑pause for detailed feeds/speeds.

10:05 – 10:44

  • Bit Comparison—O‑Flute vs. Standard Two‑Flute:
    • Both work for occasional jobs, but two‑flute leaves visible fuzz (“fuzzies”) and demands more finish work.
    • O‑flute minimizes cleanup in both soft and hard plastics.

10:44 – 11:19

  • Conclusion & Encouragement:
    • Strong recommendation to use O‑flute bits for acrylic and other plastics.
    • A final rallying cry: “Stop procrastinating on your CNC journey—cut it right!”

Key Takeaways

  1. Plastic vs. Wood:
  • Plastic chips tend to remelt and weld; wood chips fracture cleanly.
  1. Bit Selection Matters:
  • Avoid down‑cut bits on plastics—they trap and re‑cut chips, causing heat and poor finishes.
  • Standard up‑cut bits eject chips but still allow plastic adhesion.
  • Use single‑flute “O‑flute” bits: mirror‑finished, low‑friction geometry that cleanly evacuates chips and prevents melting on the cutter or workpiece.
  1. Workholding:
  • The upward force of up‑cut bits means more hold‑downs are needed to prevent part lift.
  1. Feeds & Speeds:
  • Hard plastics (acrylic) run slower; soft plastics (HDPE) can be machined at higher feeds.
  • Always reference manufacturer‑recommended RPM and chip‑load settings (demonstrated on‑screen).
  1. Finish Quality & Cleanup:
  • O‑flute bits yield clean edges with virtually no post‑processing.
  • Two‑flute up‑cut bits leave “fuzzies” and require more sanding/brushing.
  1. Practical Tips:
  • Use tabs to anchor profiles and avoid parts shifting during finish passes.
  • A simple nylon brush or even a fingertip can clear stray plastic shreds.
  • Expect a mess—wear eye protection and clear chips frequently.

Following these guidelines and using the right cutter will transform your plastic‑machining results from stringy messes to crisp, clean edges.

3 Likes
1005

Actually that’s better (though it’s AI :P). I don’t need to watch 11 minutes for the two slides and the tip to buy O whatevs.

/edit: 1000! :tada:

3 Likes