Due to many mistakes and F ups, I actually haven’t used it in months. I’m now gathering the courage again to start cutting something.. But then I read about FluidTouch.. hey that might be awesome. Oh I then need to update the Firmware. Carefull reading.. Oh I can do that. Only I had to move the machine to get it close to a USB port. While taking it of the rails I found out that my Core was very loose. On futher inspection it has broken.
Now I know my workshop can sometimes get a bit warm, but I did not expect this. Has anyone experianced this? Would reprinting it in PETG be advisable? Let me know your thoughts.
Luckily the machine is the hobby so replacing the Core is not something I dread. Buys me some time before I actually will need to try another cut.
i had a few scenarios when an old collet wasn’t gripping and tool would work loose and bury itself into material running at 1600 + mm/m the stress on the core, i was sure it would of cracked / broken it ,but it hasn’t
possibly could be an issue when it was printed, have you still got original file you printed , id check infill setting
Please dont use PetG. Look just for Pla (no matte color), or PET-CF. (You need a printer capable of 280+ temp -siraya filament, elegoo have pet-cf also really cheap less than 60 euros for 2 1kg spools)
How tight did you make the core to rail connection? The usual cause for cracking V1 parts is overtightening. Those 5/16 bolts will put a LOT of force, way more than you will ever need.
For your next core, I suggest leaving those bolts not even tight, just enough to grab the nut thread. The core should be slightly loose on the rails, then tighten them in tiny increments until you can’t rattle the core on the rails with your fingers.
I mention this because that looks like a lot of thread visible outside of the nuts, compared to my build, and my build has slightly undersized tubing, which should need more tightening than “as designed.”
As an aside, when you are replacing the core, inspect your braces as well, if you overtighten the strut screws, those are prone to cracking as well. Strut screws should only be tight enough to hold the braces to the tubes.
As for PETG, Ive said before that my personal opinion is that it is probably OK, but it is definitely less rigid than PLA, and therefore is a downgrade in machine capability. I use PETG for most of my printing, but still did the LR4 in PLA.
Thanks for these comments. It came loose a couple of month ago so I tightened the bolds further. I’ll make sure not to do it too much this time.
I replaced the part with PLA again. When I slid it on the rails wit was already nice and snug. So I only tightend the bold until the sat agains the plastic and I could not move them up and down anymore. Let’s see if it holds. Now I need to find some time to make a cut.
