All of my beta builds didn’t have ends on the wires so that made it a TON easier lol. Having done one now with a new kit it is a little fiddly but not horrible. I did it per the instructions. The next one I am going to try the Z first then the others and see how that turns out. The boss lady didn’t enjoy running the wires much at all 
Yeah that one
So, when you have a part that took a good while to print, such as the YZ plate, as you have it nearly completed in assembly, and you get a spinning nut in a capture slot, it is frustrating. It encourages caution to not get a screw started into cross threading. To me, given the choice between wasting the print versus getting it assembled, even if that one nut and screw would not be removable short of destroying the printed part, I opt for this approach 1) using something sharp and metallic jammed against the nut to try to hold it while I get the screw back out of it, and ideally replacing whichever was problematic, screw or nut or both, and 2) fastening the (presumably new) nut in place with some carefully applied CA glue and accelerant.
Have been sick for four days but finally completed the main assembly.
Am I over thinking the table? There seem to be so many different options that people have built. I don’t know which one to go with. A torsion box seems too much effort, especially the fact that after all that you will still need to surface it. I don’t have any restrictions such as having to put it away. So don’t want to go with those advanced foldable designs. It is going to be a full size table so I guess I will need some support underneath my spoil board to prevent sagging. Maybe I will just go with a sparser torsion box. Any recommendations would be helpful 
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Yes.
One like it is currently sitting on plus a spoilboard on top would work fine.
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Yes 
Go get some cheap 2x4’s and basically build you a stud wall, the size you need your top to be. And then sheet the top of it. That’s how my first LR2 table was and it worked great. And still is for the guy I sold it to 2 years ago lol.
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(Pete in Fresno btw) We both are overthinking the table. I am actually working on material list for full-size build right now. I need to be able to move mine, store it on its side, etc.
Thinking I will make some long boxes, maybe 1/2" mdf the length of the table for the rail and Y axis and use plywood joists (or maybe make some mini TJIs) for the frame which the spoil board will sit on. That way I can just set it on a table, or saw horses, or even on the concrete floor. My goal is sturdy, flat and light.
So don’t feel bad about what table to use/make… apparently simple plywood on the floor works too 
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Sturdy is the only real need! Check for tables around your thrift shops! Marketplace, or craigslist! You will of course need a board on top!
Peter, I’m in Fresno and just starting a build later this month (parts should arrive tomorrow). We’ll have to compare notes.
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Local… i am actually in Visalia but said Fresno because nobody probably has heard of Visalia. LOL
I am having an issue with my LR4. When I try jogging only one of the Y motors work. Y min just makes a single clicking sound and then doesn’t move at all. The sound is also made just once then for any further attempts at jogging there is no response at all. I plugged it into the port for X-axis and tried moving it but it was the same result. Is the motor faulty? or some configuration issue? All of the others are working fine.
Also, I can’t get Z homing to work, it keeps giving me an error saying “Pull off failed to clear the switch. Adjust in settings” or something like that even though the end stops are clear.
Motors almost never fail. Wiring (especially extension cables and connectors plugging into boards) fails all the time. Carefully check your wiring.
You should create your own topic for troubleshooting so others can see it and have a chance to know you need help. Not everyone reads every thread and you really have a new topic.
When you create your new topic, we can start working on the Z homing and whatever else you need help with.
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