I plan to do this on my newly upgraded LR4, and new spoilboard. I’ll also be adding 3/4” dovetail tracks (routed, not aluminum) and use 3d printed cam clamps. I also plan to use wedges in certain cases.
Can I ask how you did the drilling? What bit, and how big were the circles? What spacing?
Thanks so much, appreciate your insights
Hey, awesome! It’s been a while, so forgive me if I’m a bit fuzzy on the details. I know I used 1in pvc from Home Depot, and cut it to like 1.5in lengths. For the spacing, I’ll be honest I’m pretty sure I just made a pattern of the holes on fusion 360 and spaced them out till “it looked good”
. For the fence I did it a little more dense as you can see. 1in pvc (at least in the US) is 1.315in OD, and 1.029in ID, giving a thickness of .286in. If I remember right, I think I just did a straight cut with a 1/4in (0.25in) bit, and then hammered the pvc pipe into the holes, so it was a pretty tight fit. But it makes sure the pipes stay in place even when you accidentally cut into them. I might have done a finishing pass on the inner portion of the cutout to give a little more leeway?, can’t remember. I would say it might be worth it to do a test piece with several different tolerances to figure out which fitment you like best.
Thanks for the info. I’ve planned to use 1/2” since I have a huge pile in the basement. I’m going to make a 1.5” wide strip of mdf with the pvc embedded in the X and Y direction as close to the x0 point as I can. That way, I can replace the rest of the spoilboard without interfering with the pvc
Yep, always nice to use up material on hand. One option to ensure that you get your 0,0 origin point correct is to place the fence as close as you can, and then cut it out with the machine afterwards to ensure it’s perfect, rather than just going off eyeballing.
Valiant attempt, but that would only work to null sound at the router itself (if aligned). The nulls around a bystander would still be moving around.
You build another LR4, but you put a chair on it…
Don’t forget that it will be a lot of trouble syncronizing running the Gcode. Even with just 2, the timing is ugly. Instead run that sucker off of 96VDC and put the motors from all 3 in series, so they stay in lockstep.
On the next episode of “Complex non-solutions to simple non-problems” …