Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

I do see it happening, so far no issues though.

This is a tough one for a rigid coupler because of the high chance of one side lowering before the other. Damage is sure to happen. This needs some ability to bend, so either a flex/hinge mount at the nut or trap the spring coupler a little better with two bearings. I am not sure.

Or the new anti backlash nuts for these rods might add enough friction to help hold it up by itself then we can switch to rigid couplers.

I am messing with it for the mpcncā€™s update.

Interesting nuts.

As soon as I start my machine, the motors are powered, so as long as they start at the same height, and they never skip steps, they will stay ā€œlevelā€. I am nervous to give it a big piece of plywood to see if itā€™s an issue. Maybe thereā€™s something I can do to force them to me right when I start it. Like twist the screws up to remove any slack before powering up.

I got much better results with the mpcnc (pre 525) when I pulled the x/y tight to square it up while plugging it in.

I should also test drilling to 3mm or so in several places in the spoil board and see what the variance is. This table is much flatter than my mpcnc was.

I see what you are saying, like a preload from the start. I have never looked at that, but makes sense. The stuff I have done was a cut all the way through so if the edges were at a half a degree angle it would not have mattered either. That could be checked before you start with a jog to the other side and see if it is still at the surface (or whatever your zero point is). Check the z zero nearest you, jog to the furthest side of your material check for the z zero, adjust by turning the leadscrew if necessary.

Interesting, I have not looked at this, but it could be a bit of an issue.

Do you guys use limit switches with the lowrider?

Nope.

Hey, Get your own build post! :wink: Looking forward to seeing the pics. So far no two have been the same.

So, Iā€™m having a problem. Sorry for the crummy picture.

I was skipping steps the first time I tried this gcode, and I upped the stepper output and tried again in roughly the same place. The first cut only made it 2.5mm deep, so thatā€™s why there are all those mess ups on the top.

The really issue that I canā€™t figure out, is the leftmost side in this image. It has those wavy cuts. It was cutting a pocket, then going around the outside, then cutting the next depth pocket. So on that left side, it had already done the pocket and it was moving from close to far every pass. Itā€™s hard to tell from the perspective, but the waves were getting bigger not smaller.

Any ideas on whatā€™s causing it? The other side (counter clockwise) was perfect. The left side of the right side of the pocket also had the waves, but to a smaller amount.

Bit was 1/8" downcut, 2x. Not brand new.
Linear speed was 15mm/s. Depth of cut was 2.5mm/pass. Material is plywood.

You can see the cart in the image, but in case itā€™s not obvious, toward and away from the camera (I call that y) is on the roller wheels. Left and right (I call that x) is on the long rails.

This is a plate for my table saw, and itā€™s possible it wouldnā€™t have fit with a perfect cut, but it seems like itā€™s not removing enough material, not that itā€™s removing too much.

Extreme closeup (same image, just less easier to focus on what Iā€™m talking about). The waves on the left of this gap.

I can think of anything obvious, maybe a bent bit?

Huh, actually, itā€™s not cw vs CCW. Itā€™s doing that wavyness when going from close to far, but not far to closeā€¦ This makes no sense.

Is there any way something is hitting the belt as itā€™s cutting? That could explain the pattern.

I measured the period, and itā€™s the same as the period from the pocketing. I think the pocket made the pattern and the clean up passes were either in the wrong place, or the machine was flexing and not cutting smoothly on that part.

So that explains the pattern.

Hmmm. I could do smaller depth cuts. I could replace the bit. I could change the pocketing scheme in EstlCAM. I could just recut it without the initial screw up. Lots of variables.

Here is the .e10 and .gcode, if anyone is interested. I think Iā€™ll peek at the gcode a little, to see if itā€™s somehow a CAM issue not lining up the pocketing with the trimming. Then Iā€™ll probably just cut it again and see if itā€™s reproducible.

craftsman_0_clearance.zip (47.6 KB)

Huh. I made a 10mmx100mm box, pocket, linear 15mm/s, 2.5mm/pass. I was expecting to see the same waves. I didnā€™t, but I thought it was ok when I noticed the right side wasnā€™t lined up later to layerā€¦ So I put in a new bit. Similar, but it was the same behavior, but a little less.

The Gap is wider than 10mm, so I think itā€™s skipping steps at some point. Weird that itā€™s skipping a small amount, exactly the same on each layer. I am guessing itā€™s during the plungeā€¦

I am thinking both these problems fall into ā€œJeff needs to learn to CAMā€.

Or your sides arenā€™t perpendicular? Something like this // or maybe a little of \ that?

Sorry I didnā€™t post the image. The hole on the left was the old bit. The right is the new bit.

[attachment file=32080]

This shows the comparison with 10mm on my cheapo tool.
[attachment file=32081]

Hereā€™s a video if you like. This is the filler bit cut. I canā€™t see the trouble here.

That was with fresh gcode, or did you just cut out that part. That is hard to explain unless it is a CAM glitch?

Your gcode looks okay, I usually tell it to put a speed on every line but I donā€™t think that is an issue.

I am pretty confident you have an angle on your machine somewhere. From your camera angle something looks to be angled high on the left. If you cross section it is the bottom of the cut flat, or angled?

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The stairs on the right of the cut is new gcode.

The machine and bottom of the cuts are level. Iā€™m not great with a camera, I guess.

Coloradoā€™s just a 20 hour drive. You could be here by breakfast. Err. Dinner.

Thanks for looking at the gcode. Here is the box cutout code. Dead simple though.

The big cam mistake Iā€™m making I think is plunging. I wasnā€™t cutting 2.5mm/pass before, and I donā€™t think I have that plunge angle right. Plus Iā€™m using a downcut bit. So if it skips a step after plunging every time, then that would explain the stairs. Skipped steps have to be whole steps, right? You canā€™t skip a 1/32 step, so that might explain the consistency.