I havent gotten to that point yet. The tool mounts are different but there is an adapter/Burley compatible mount so tool holders made for Burley can be used on Primo.
2 Likes
Ah, I found your problem! If you just don’t schedule anything, you are never behind schedule!
7 Likes
That’s how I roll…
Got the router installed with burly mount. Hardly worth an update. I’m taking my time trying to fix a nice enclosure for the Pi and MKS Gen L because there is not much space so I can’t just lay it out wherever.
4 Likes
How did you feel assembly went so far? easier to square, easier to build, harder?
1 Like
So far it’s much better. I mostly didn’t look at the instructions, except for the center assembly.
I don’t have a proper (open end & box-end) 1/2" wrench but I have a ratchet & sockets and a crescent wrench. This combination is pretty awful for the old XYZ parts, since it’s hard to grab the inside nut. I was reminded of this during disassembly, but for assembling Primo it is just fine. I was never a fan of the screwdriver trick and the new M5s are really easy. I have a 5/16" socket that fits M5 well enough, so the feet were easy to tighten too.
I am pretty sure my belts are way too tight.
The clamps on the trucks are a bit fiddly in that it’s hard to put them in after the gantry rail is in place. I had to put the truck clamps in first and then slide the rail in axially, which is fine but visually it looks like it should be possible to put the rail down first and then clamp it in place. This won’t stop anyone from succeeding, it’s just a minor wasted effort.
When I started to add the belts I was a bit worried about whether it would be difficult to route the belt between the rollers and over the pulley but I just pushed on the belt on both ends and it buckled between the rollers (sometimes on the second try) so that part was easy.
I haven’t gone to any extra steps to square the machine and it looks like it is pretty square already when it is at rest, so I will probably leave it like that.
So, yeah, overall easier.
2 Likes
@jamiek Looks like you’re incorporating a downdraft table into your design. Is that the case or is that a drop table?
No, it’s just what I had laying around. The original table from my first build got turned upside-down to create a sort of drop table for my 3d printed metal attempt, and the hole was for the inverted router to clear. Sorry, not a vacuum.
Since then I’ve removed the legs and put wheels on it and I’m thinking I’ll keep the drop table.
2 Likes
There are some cases out there but I decided to roll my own modular stackable cases to hold the Raspberry Pi and MKS Gen L. The dimensions are a bit oversize for both, but I wanted to make it large enough that the same stacking system could accommodate the Rambo, even though I’m not using it currently.
The grey areas visualize the boards and show the holes punched in the sides for wires.
I also put it up on thingiverse here
Getting close! Just need to tidy up the wires and I can start moving.
5 Likes
Got a third floor lid with fan that blows on the stepper drivers. Unfortunately it is a bit cramped and the trucks run into it at the extreme position, so I need to adjust and reprint with the fan shifted about 15mm over.
Also flashed, set currents and steps per mm and checked all three axes are moving (brand new board and A4988 drivers).
So hoping to set up a spoil board and cut something today. Because I know how much @vicious1 hates to see clean machines.
3 Likes
Officially dirty. Made a little wood robot.
Not sure why the wood got scorched. It was a new bit but maybe something about the tool path, maybe too slow or too deep or the plunge maybe got hot and toasted /dulled the bit.
Anyway now working, though I still need to tidy up the wires. I think Im going to use David’s aluminum angle approach for the Z.
7 Likes
Yes!!
Maximilian?
This robot is just a random svg I pulled off the interwebs. I think it bears a slight resemblance to claptrap with the trapezoidal shape and one wheel, but I’m not aiming for a specific robot.
Third time is the charm. This time it’s 3/4 inch (~19 mm) pine. (Previous photos were 1/2" poplar.) I am a bit nervous with such a deep cut, especially when the flutes are not that long. The perimeter I did with two passes: first was a 9.5 mm cut with 1 mm finishing pass so it leaves a wide channel on the top half of the cut. Then the second pass is the remaining 10mm with a 0.1 mm offset (no finishing pass) with the hope that maybe the shank will rub a bit less than it otherwise would.
It is easy to find 3/4 inch planks and I had never really figured out a good way to do thru-cuts with short flutes, so I’m happy that this appears to work.
On the previous attempt (second attempt) I made an error in Estlcam with the depth and drove the collet nut into the workpiece and very quickly started to make smoke. Luckily I was able to hit the E stop quickly.
5 Likes
Thought the same. 
1 Like
Splendid.
Waiting for the first MPCNC-driven chainsaw now. Or a jackhammer.
Seriously: Even when you were the only person in the room - some sort of safety-fence seems to be advisable.
How did you fine-adjust the cutting angle? Just with the tool mount? An angle grinder needs to be moved very precisely along it’s cutting plane, horizontally and vertically. Free-flying grinder disc splinters are no fun…
But I like the approach. Do something that others haven’t tried before. Exacly my bandwidth. Otherwise, I wouldn’t be here. 
2 Likes
Do you have a link to this adapter as I seemed to have missed it? 
I misspoke, its not an adapter per se. The Burly universal tool mount is directly compatible with the Primo Z axis, or even the entire Burly Z axis will fit into the Primo core. The Z rail spacing and the holes are the same.
The only consideration is the Burly tool mount expects smaller #6 or M4 screws, so you will need the Burly nut traps too. The Primo nut traps are made for M5.
Do you have a link to your marlin fw source code/configuration that you used for the mks gen l ? I have an mks gen l board and lcd laying around.