@Jerrymc3, you may want to start another thread with a different title since there doesn’t seem to be a whole lot of Illustrator users on the forum so this title won’t get a lot of traffic. That way more people will likely join in since they’ll see it’s a machine/programming question not an AI question.
But let me see if I can help. I couldn’t find a build thread by you so I assume this is a new Primo? build. Please correct me if I’m wrong and skip any parts that you’ve already done.
First off did you successfully plot the Test Crown? Doing this helps to rule out programming related issues and helps to verify that your machine is running correctly. Endstops/homing is not required. Also make sure that you print Ryan’s pen holder or similar for better plotting. Note that a lighter force (pen pressure) normally produces better results.
If that looks good, next confirm that your machine is square and the travel distances are correct. I did this by drawing the largest rectangle that I could repeatably/accurately measure. You could also use Jamie’s test pattern generator which is pretty slick.
At this point you could either proceed without using endstops or set them up and dial your machine in. Note that endstops are not required to successfully run your machine. I have heard of many users not using them at all with very good success. The main advantage of endstops are for really dialing in the squareness of your machine. They also help to set a repeatable starting position but that can also be accomplished using hardstops. Now it sounds like you already have them running but did you dial them in? If not you may want to do so by using the previous rectangle or generated test pattern but that’s only if you feel you need to.
Now on to your homing question. It looks correct but what are the next lines of code? Is there another G92 after your z homing that resets the home position at the last position (5mm above your original 0)? If so you may need to add a move to return it to zero after there is a pause to remove the touch plate. I personally would create a dedicated homing program that you would run prior to running your cutting program so you don’t have to add it to each program. You can easily type that up in a text editor and rename like hm-xy.gcode and hm-z.gcode or similar.
Regarding your second question (once again I’m assuming you are running a Primo). X & Y homing should move the core to the front left corner of your work area until the endstops are triggered. Z homing should move the router down until the touch plate is detected. It will continue to move down until a touch plate is detected, you bottom out on the table, or you kill the power. Your Z motor will make what sounds like gear grinding if it bottoms out but that is just the motor skipping steps, not mechanical grinding/damage. So you should NEVER use home all. I believe Repetier only has one homing option (all axis) since it was designed for 3D printing so you’ll either have to send manual commands (one set of commands to home X&Y for squaring and a second set when you are ready to set Z) or run a dedicated homing program for the two (instead of adding it to the beginning of each program).
When I start up my machine I will home X & Y first then I will jog the tool over to my work piece and set the Z height. I have a touch plate however I normally use an old machinist trick to set Z instead. I slide a piece of paper between the end of the cutter (with the router off) and workpiece. Then I slowly lower the Z while moving the paper back and forth (you’d use the manual controls on Repter at the lowest increment). I stop lowering Z when the cutter snags the paper and then I zero Z. If I want to get really exact I’ll move the cutter down the thickness of the paper and re-zero Z (after moving up, removing the paper and moving it back down). That’s normally not super critical for woodworking but may be needed for your panel parts.
Now I have not used Temujin CAM so I don’t know how well it works. I only recommended that you look into it since you were looking for an alternative to easily go from dxf to gcode. You’ll need to verify that the gcode it creates is Marlin “friendly”. I’m a little concerned that if it’s creating .nc gcode it may be added some non-marlin commands but Marlin normally ignores them so it may not be an issue just something to keep in mind in the future.
Sorry about the lengthy response. Hopefully this helps.