Getting to my first cut on the LR3

Sounds like you tried to reduce the Y axis instead of increase it.

From home, X and Y sit at zero, and move positive, Z sits at 200 and can move negative.

If that was increase Y axis, something must be straining the wires at Y home.

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Hey Dan,

Got my Y axis to work, it looks like my wiring is really capricious, if the smallest disconnect happen, it won’t run properly.

Do you guys know if I can glue those connections? After the strut of course :wink:

Hot glue works well for those dupont connectors. A wrap of tape will do it too.

First make sure that the pin connectors are sll the way locked into the housings


Roger that Dan, thanks :pray:

It’s alive!!! (kinda)

Need to figure out leveling but it’s an achievement!!

Not to bad for a Millennial! hahahaha

Question for you Big Brain People!

So I took the length of my Y diagonal (better as I could) and I’m around 268cm if not mistaken…

Now what? that’s the point I don’t get. I will try to level the Z axis soon enough but I just don’t get what I’m suppose to do with the diagonal of the Y? Help? :slight_smile:

Also I don’t find anyway to set a new Home. Feel like I would need to do it inside the code of the marlin since there is no G or M command that actually do it? Am I wrong?

As of now I just put the gantry where I want it to be, hit a G92 X0 Y0 Z0 and start the pattern…

Peace people! Man I’m so pump! What a blessing!!!

Congrats on the progress!

When you say you measured a diagonal, are you perhaps referring to checking for square?

If so, the concept is to measure both diagonals, like making an “X”, and compare the two measurements. If your machine is running perfectly square, then the two measurements will match exactly.

It’s common to be off a little, and it can be compensated for.

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Exactly Doug, the squarring part of the doc.

Let’s say I’m a little bit of, what do I need to do. I don’t get it haha

Thanks again!

which board are you running?

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How to compensate depends on what kind of operating system/firmware you are running. Typically a BTT SKR will have Marlin on it, and you are looking at inputting an “M666” G-Code command into the terminal on the touch screen, which tells the firmware which way to correct, and by how much. You then use M500 command to save the current setup to Eeprom. From then on, the auto-correction happens each time you home.

If you are using a Jackpot, then it runs FluidNC, which is GRBL-based instead of Marlin-based, so the method would be different, and I would have to check.

If it’s Marlin, then this video of mine explains how to use the M666 command:

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@DougJoseph beat me to it with a MUCH better explanation. Thanks Doug!!!


Roger that Captain! Will look into it. Appreciate it really!

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I would love it if every answer was just a video from Doug haha.


It will! Give him 2 years! :wink:

Looking better by the day boys!

I have another question for the squaring part, I was thinking, optimaly shall we try to square the whole thing using our router bit instead of the sharpy?



Ryan does it with a V bit. Not running. Just uses the point to poke a hole in the tape. Last time I did mine that’s how I did it. And I’m about to do it again now that I just installed the jackpot board.


Makes sense! My brain is still trying to wrap around the whole process. Kinda make me think about when I used to start 3D printing. CNC is a bit more complex!

But close to start cutting those strut plate! can’t wait man

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I did the same. V bit into tape. It’s a lot more accurate than a Sharpie


Roger that Mike, thanks for the input

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