Getting started 3 years late

Hoping to put a dent in the build tomorrow. I laminated 2 sheets of CDX ply together for a different build and was gonna repurpose it. The top surface is quite rough, though (it’s CDX, after all). Should I bother skinning it in MDF or just deck the CDX once it’s built?

Do folks tend to add a spoil board on top of a table, or do the ‘spoil board is the table top and you cut out the center of the spoil board once it’s built’?

For the MPCNC, I just made what was effectively a combination spoilboard/tabletop and then mounted the MPCNC onto it. I screwed a secondary sheet of 1/4" MDF onto that as a ‘more sacrificial’ spoilboard on top of that and ended up mostly using it like that for stuff I’d be cutting completely through.

So I wouldn’t worry about skinning it to start with, I’d just make it in the easiest way and then get cutting some stuff.

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Just what I needed to hear. Thanks again :slight_smile:

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Heya folks -

Getting started! Quick question on the belts: mine came as one continuous length. Should I cut it into these outputs from the calculator?

I ask because my last belt build was a CoreXY printer and I feel like those belt paths are a lil weird. Just making sure that I should be chopping this length up accordingly before doing so!

Thanks in advance.

If it were me, I would build the gantry feed the belt through stuff and cut off the excess. Then do the same for each side of the y axis. No need to pre-cut into three pieces.

4 pieces, not 3 - right?

Sorry, was thinking Lowrider not MPCNC… missed that on my phone.

I think the same approach applies. I’d hate to cut something an inch short.

4 pieces for the MPCNC, yeah.

I’d figure out what you need and try to cut the belts ‘evenly’, ensuring that each belt is more than long enough. On the MPCNC there’s no harm to having excess and, indeed, I’d encourage it.

If you’ve got a single 180 inch belt and need 145 inches, I’d say that’s 35 inches extra or ~8 inches per belt.

So cut to 2x 49", 2x 41" in that case. You can always trim later. I just wrapped mine around the tube and cable tied it in place.

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Thanks! That sounds like a great approach. Makes good sense.

@jono035 you’ve been such a great support and steady voice of reason! Thank you so much for your time.

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Glad to hear that!

Same approach applies if you shrink the MPCNC, as well. I just pulled the belts out of the holders and moved them down, wrapping the excess up further. If I want to go back to a 600x600 that doesn’t need much in the way of cutting forces, like for engraving, plotting or running a laser, then I’m set.

Moving on to my belts and I’m pretty surprised by how much I can rock the whole assembly (rotate around axis of tool, let’s say). Is this normal?

Imgur link since I can’t upload videos.

Also, is there a different wiring guide than this one? The fact that it is in the “archive” section makes me concerned that it’s out of date for some reason.

TIA

for example… I only have 1 Z motor, but there’s two ports labeled Z…


you only have 5 driver chips on that board. (red marks). The z has 2 plugs to the one z driver so you can run two motors for Z, which was a common “upgrade” for a 3d printer, but you won’t use the second z plug on this build. Just leave it open.

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Thank you @orob ! Does it matter which motor I call X1 vs X2? Or no matter as long as I match endstops with motors?

Do folks usually just put their electronics in a box off to the side?

X1 vs X2 should not matter if matched by endstop and rotating the correct direction, but by convention, X1 is the minimum and X2 is the maximum. Generally speaking it is easier to sort out later if you follow convention. If you put them in the wrong place, and wire things backwards, I’ve seen people cut mirror images of what they wanted, so there is that possibility. User discretion is advised.

Thank you @orob . Is this standard noted somehwhere? The only wiring reference I’ve found is what I’ve linked + the sub link to the Rambo section.

Its been a good while since we have used the Rambo so any docs on it will be old. What @orob told you is correct though and should get you going :partying_face:

Interesting! That’s what I get for leaving my parts in a box for 3 years :-p

worth switching to the (checks site) Jackpot 3, or should I just stick with the Rambo I’ve already got?

If you prefer having an attached screen then stick with what you have. If you had the mini rambo I would say for sure change it. The Jackpot 3 is a nice board and the user interface is much nicer and more CNC instead of 3d printer like the marlin boards are. I had a rambo on my LR2, then went to SKR on my LR3, and when the jackpot came out I switched over to that and never looked back.