I finished off the wiring rat’s nest at the Ramps by wraping it with the Tesla Wire Loom Harness Tape. It came out like a mini car wiring harness. The excess is tucked between the RAMPS and the frame.
The other little mod I made was an adjuster for the Z stop. My screw was too short, so I made a an extender so I can adjust the stop by hand. On the bottom, I cut the head off a screw so I had just the thread, and on top is a screw. I can adjust the Z height without lifting the Z axis and dial it right in.
What bed temperatures you using for PLA? I seemed to get some good stick at 75 degrees on a clean bed. My test print was an Artic Cat symbol that has long spikes that come to a point at the ends. At lower temps, the ends would come loose and the head would pull the print up. Round and sqaure things seem to be less of a problem.
I’m sure there are as many opinions on the right temp as there are 3D printers in the world. Here’s my experience: For things that are less than two inches wide, I will use 45C for my print bed. I usually use blue painters tape, and if I notice that the plastic is peeling up from the tape, I will wipe the top of the tape off with rubbing alcohol. I found a $0.99 bottle at the supermarket, and I just spray it on, then wipe off with a paper towel. The tape has some kind of grease on it to start with. If The tape is coming up from the plate (this started happening after I added a plate for glass) I will bring the temp up to 60C or so. The peeling/warping happens from either:
a) The layers are cooling down too fast, and they are warping when the upper layers are still hot, so increase the temp or
b) The bed isn’t level or flat. If it applies more plastic on one area than another, due to the distance to the nozzle, then you can get warping too. Aluminum will change it’s shape when it heats up, so the easiest thing to do is to add a glass plate, but you might also try leveling with the bed warm, or even try lower temperature bed.
I think you should be able to print the MK fan shroud at 45C or even with no heat without it warping. I haven’t tried, that, but that’s what my gut is telling me. If you can’t do that, then I think something else might be wrong.
When I want a really flat bottom, I print on glass, and lose the tape. I just apply a thin layer of glue stick (the elmer’s stuff that starts out purple, and then dries clear). It makes a mess, but it ends up super flat.
The blue stuff is fusion wrap over cotton insulation. It has the same high temp as Kapton tape (280 C). I put a small piece on each end, and it doesn’t seem to be bonding as well on the edges.
Jeffeb3, thanks for the info on bed temps. I have been printing on blue painters tape and unheated bed. I have no problem getting stick. I use Alcohol Prep Pads to wipe down the surface. It’s very difficult to get the PLA prints off without taking up the tape. I want to get some other types of filament to experiment with now I have the headed bed.
I will put the Z stop adjuster stl files on Thingiverse if anyone wants to make one.
I drove a 2" screw through the bottom, with the head still attached, but then I printed and used your design. I first printed it about 50mm tall, and that was long enough, but it rubs the X-Motor part, so now I see why you need the screw on the top as well.
I wanted a filament spool holder, but couldn’t find anything I liked on Thingiverse, so I made one. I wanted a roller so I could make quick changes and something I could mount on top of the printer or placed on a table. I made one.
This is made from all metal except for the printed detachable printer mount. Its made from aluminum angle, threaded rod and bearings. The printed holder just snaps on to the bottom of the angle. I made this to fit all the spools I could find, so no adjustment is needed between spool changes, but it still can be made wider if I someday get a jumbo spool. I just tried it out and it looks like it will work well.
Here is a fan mod I did to work better with the my LED light ring. I planed to order a Blow Radial type fan next time I do an online purchase and mess around with a new mounting. Yesterday I had this idea and designed up a part to convert a standard 40mm X 40mm fan. There are several conversions out there but require taking the fan apart and cutting the fan fins off. This just screws to the fan. It seems to efficiently change direction of air flow.
I temporarily mounted it on the LED to try it out. So far it seems to direct air better around the obstructions I have.
I posted the Vortex Fan Shroud on Thingiverse here:
This is just the Shroud without the duct or mounting I used for my MP3DP. The duct was super glued to the output. I used the existing fan mount tab on the extruder bracket. I added a mounting tab to the shroud and made an “L” shaped bracket to mount the fan (pic attached). If anyone would like these modified files, I would be happy to share them.
I also posted my spool holder and mounting brackets: