OK, I understood what you said and I have corrected it. Now I want to test before making the complete piece. I have made only one part but I don’t know why it goes down all at once when I start. I’m doing the test on a 12MM MDF and I’m recording a video of what I’m doing on stlcam to see if you can tell me what I’m doing wrong to make this happen.
I’m not sure I understand what you mean here.
According to the screen capture of the EstlCAM preview cut, it looks like you are taking several (6 or 7) passes for each cut. This equates to a Depth of Cut per pass (DOC/pass) of around 2mm (this is set in your Tool settings window). You could probably increase that to 4.5mm DOC/pass, and do the piece in 3 passes for your total DOC of 13mm.
Note that it looks like your Tab settings are a bit off, as the tab is almost 10mm high, whereas you probably only need about 2mm on a 12mm piece of MDF.
When you say that it goes down all the way, have you probed to the top of the work material using the G38.2 Z0 command and the Touch Probe? After you do that, you need to set the Z height using the G92 Zx (where x = the thickness of the touch probe = 0.5 for the V1 touch probe). That tells the controller that the top of the work surface is Z=0, so it will cut only 13mm total below that point.
Otherwise it is using the homing reference of Z=200 at the top of the Z travel, and the top of the travel is only about 70mm above the spoil board, and when you start the gcode file, it will try to move 200mm down to reach Z=0, with unwanted results.
Hope that makes sense to you…
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Also, your Zero X/Y should be closer to the workpiece. 
Thanks for helping me to solve the problem, indeed it was that when I sent to the Z gcode is at 200mm and tried to go down to 0mm so it went to the bottom stop. But using the data you provided me and also searching a little in the documentation I was able to solve the problem. I have another query, does anyone have their lowrider3 with a Makita M3700b. If so could you recommend adapters to use smaller cutters, I would appreciate it very much.
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Our local home improvement stores sell hardboard only at 1/8" thick, and I wanted 1/4" if I could get it. I found out that Home Depot sells it as a product labelled as “wainscoting” — made to attach to lower half of room walls, and has grooves in it, giving the appearance of slats, and the grooved side is painted (primed?) white. The space between the grooves was more than enough for cutting struts. I found some of this in their scratch-and-dent corner, where they sell at a discount. For partially damaged sheet goods it’s 70% off. So I got all they had and it’s been great as the strut for my LowRider v4 pre-release testing. Plus, because one side is painted, it means when I did laser engraving on it, I got great contrast. Here are some pics of the struts I made from it:
This last pic shows thickness, but also shows that I used a chamfer (bevel) cut bit in my router table to bevel the sides of the protruding nubs that make these into “Jamie Strut Plates” aka JPlates. The beveling is a trick I came up with to get even more shielding from dust / chips, and even better aesthetic.
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