Ok, cool. Looks like I just have to figure out the conduit and go from there then. Thanks.
z nut 13mm is is too tall. and small defect on the top. reduced to 24mm height in the slicer.
Sounds like you have it upside down. The small features should both face the each other, on the lock and spacer.
Then for the new roller must consider the same size for outer rails and middle rails?
The ones from the calculator will fit, but now they can be longer as well. Inside can now be as long as the outside. Hope that makes sense.
Are the bolt lengths for the long bolts on the new rollers the same lengths?
Yup same.
Hooray!! Thank you Allted or Vicious 1 or which ever name you prefer to be referred to as. Excellent. Thank you, Thank you for the 25.4mm files. Thank you for your time and effort to bring this out.
I was going to spend the weekend to try and resolve the problems I was having, as even after the mods of drilling the 25mm versions bearing holes out to 8.5mm and everything SORT of working, I had a distortion from the Motor mounts that was causing a problem with getting the alignment from working, just a slight pull that MIGHT have been held in place once the motors are energized, but I know would have given issues somewhere. The center seems to not be causing any distortion that I can tell but I am going to reprint that as well to be sure.
Love the ‘improved’ design as the cable exit through the drive belt was a concern and I could not find any way to secure the cables neatly or use cable drag system as everyone else seems to have gone with a double rail system for this, and I have stayed with a single system to keep the Z Height low. Tried printing one cable drag design but the two links broke almost immediately. Will continue to look.
I printed the first Roller Plate and RollerM in PLA+ but I am concerned at the performance of the new glass bed as it seems that there is a slight lifting even after adding a copious quantity of PVA to the water mix. Have got the New Roller printing now, 6 and half hours which seems to be flat. Just got to hope it stays on the bed.
Hope I can give you some useful feedback over the weekend.
You’re welcome and thank you.
Shucks
The part came off the bed after 4 hours. Just went to look and a nice birds nest. Going to take the glass off and go back to the std bed and start the print again.
Glass print bed problem seems to have been addressed, Added a LOT more PVA glue to the mix and find if it is spread around on the hot print bed quickly becomes tacky and print on it before it dries completely. Have brought some glue sticks for reserve in case as they seem to be an option, but have managed to get the first two rollers printed without them breaking off the bed or distorting this time.
In assembling the one pair of new rollers I think I have found the reason I was getting the slight deflection with the modified 25mm set. I seem to have a height difference between the X & Y, but for my life I cannot see exactly where it is coming from. It appears to be from the middle assembly as it gets worse or better depending on the position.
Would the mix of the old and new rollers and Middle Assembly make a height difference or have I assembled something wrong in the middle assembly?
Have got the third Roller assembly printing now.
The old roller assemblies, and the new ones have a different gantry rail height. You can’t mix them. Is that the problem?
Thanks for the reply, I will print out the fourth roller assembly and see if that sorts the problem.
Is there a reason to stick with stainless steel when cold rolled steel is so much cheaper? It’s the wall thickness making the difference I thought, so cold rolled steel with a wall thickness of .188 inches would flex less than EMT conduit tubing over a long span if so. Might need to rework the rollers for NEMA 23’s if that ends up being too heavy - but it seems 3 feet only weighs 5lbs.
Surface finish, and mass and the biggest factors. It might seem more rigid but it is so heavy it actually bends under its own weight. Mass needs to be kept down for rapid accelerations, the surface tends to be pretty nasty on raw steel, and there is always the pitting/rusting that can happen. You might have a better supplier than me but for the little amount we use stainless if far superior for not much more money.
Hmm, bending under the weight would be pretty bad.
Actually it’s that while I can get wood easily locally (local saw mill - you pick up a 10 foot oak, 5 foot poplar, 6 foot oak, some cedar, hey, how much? $20.) metal is a different story. I can find the square stock, but stainless steel circular tubing seems hard to find. I was just looking on Amazon and there were no .05" or thicker that I could find, and the .039" seemed to be more expensive than the cold rolled steel in much thicker walls. Shipping just about kills all online sources except Amazon from my searches online.